To slab or not to slab.

Coin certification is a subject that has strong advocates for and against.

Most agree on the four top services:

NGC
PCGS
ANACS
IGC

To often collectors use the grading services as a crutch. Grading, while an art form, can be learned by anyone willing to put forth the effort.

So when should you slab your raw coin?

Key dates in any series, and coins that are often targets of counterfeiters.

Remember, buy the coin, never the holder.

 

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I would slab any early proof, especially any high-end proofs including modern stuff. Slabs help protect the coin and either stop or slow down the oxidation/toning process that actually changes the metal surfaces. The top tier services also help establish a pretty good idea of what the coin grade is, as well as authenticate the coin.

 

I should have read this before posting my question. Though I am still undecided.

 

I don't know if y'all will agree with me, but I think it might be useful to use a lower cost grading services (like ANACS) for coins that you get at a good price and then later they go up--you might want to slab them to keep them from getting damaged.

I got a 1892-P Barber Half in F-12 for $2.00. To me that would be a good one to slab just because it's worth more then what I paid and so it won't be damaged.

One more thing....what about using grading services to help learn how to grade the MS grades??

I'm doing a set of proof franklins 1950-1963 all in PF-66. Since I'm not sure of myself when grading proofs I will only buy the coins slabbed.
(so far I have almost a complete set from 1956-1963...so have cameo and are higher grade then PF-66)

Just some thoughts....

Speedy

 

I'm not that great a fan of slabbing, although my very small collection of gold is housed exclusively in PCGS plastic, mainly because I lack GDJMSP's eye and grading skills.

If you do, just be sure to stick exclusively with the "big four" - and preferably only one of them - to get a better basis for identifying the tiny differences in appearance between adjacent grades.

Using one of the bottom-feeder TPGs would lead you to believe that so long as it's round and metal, it's MS/PR70.

 

As Rosanne Rosanadana used to say "Never mind" my advice to use only one of the Big 4 for self-training. Doug has convinced me that four heads are better than one!

 

Now thats FUNNY, but true

 

Satootoko

Don't I know it! I got some off brand slabs the other day just to see how they worked and man are they cheap...I took apart one with my DULL pocket knife.

GDJMSP
Well I've been here and there...I'm here at least once a day sometimes more--I just don't comment a lot unless I have a question or just to add my 2 cents worth.

I used to not like slabs just because I couldn't hold the coin like I can when it's raw but I've changed....when I see coins that are damaged I like slabs even better

In the last year I've gotten quite a few slabs from all 4 companies.

One question...

What would you say are "valuable" coins worth over $100 or BU coins that are going up in value?

Speedy

 

GDJMSP

Ah....that is what I needed to know

I never have either but might someday.

I think I'd only send in coins to have slabbed if they were...

CC Morgans
Key Dates or Simi Keys
Red Cents
Older Proof Coins

Thanks again for your help.

Speedy

 

The day you pack up all of your best coins and hand them off to the Post Office is a scary day indeed. Only second in scaryness to the day you get them back, open them, and hope there are no body bags!.

 

Slabbing to me offers a number of benefits.

{I only slab with PCGS, NGC, ICG and ANACS...ONLY!}

1.) Trust! If I have to sell something quickly, I can pretty much sell a slabbed MS66 coin much faster and with higher prices obtained than me stating it is MS66. A coin slabbed by the top four offers more peace of mind in both buying and selling. Of course I try to buy the coin, not the slab IF I can see and hold it...but when you can't, who would you trust? Slabbed or Raw? At least my benefactors will have the ability to dispose of my collection for the coins that are slabbed versus ones in 2x2's and/or folders.

2.) Protection! Sonically sealed and Intercept Shields (ICG) offer the best in storing and long-term protection. Afterall, if I want early Lincoln Reds to stay red (all things being equal), what would you use? Sonically sealed, air-tight with the Intercept Shield or something else?

3.) Display! Neatly labeled and easy for looking, slabs offer that as well.

 

Ed
I agree with you--

One reason I will only buy my proof franklins slabbed, is because how do I know that after I buy it the seller won't put his big fingers on it and kill the value...I think that as long as it's slabbed it's protected.

A buddy and myself are taking about sending some coins to ANACS so I guess I'll try them first.

I like all of the slabs PCGS NGC ANACS ICG PCI and if I could get it at the right price I might even buy an off name brand slab.

One thing I don't like about PCGS and ICG and PCI is that you have to send the coins through a dealer---ANACS has it so anybody can send it and NGC has it so that ANA members can.

And one more thing PCGS NGC PCI and (I think ICG) charge about $20..why?? Just because they are a big name or what??

ANACS charges about $10 and to me that is more reasonable then $20 and from what I've seen they seem to grade the same.

It's kind of like the mint....why do they charge more then face?? I guess we'll never know.

Thanks for your input.

Speedy


BTW
Has anybody ever gotten a ANACS body bag????

 

I joined PCGS as a "silver member" and was able to send coins in. Here's how:

http://www.pcgs.com/join/index.chtml

ICG doesn't require a "hard" membership either. Just sign up and you will get a collector ID number.

I haven't sent coins to NGC lately, so maybe some of the rules have changed.

Also, I sent to Anacs under economy service and I finally got my coins back after 95 days after they received it! VERY SLOW with little if no customer service. An email or note would have been nice stating they were in receipt of my coins.

PCI in the old holders hold more wait than the recent grades...don;t know why, but I usually will look at then with more caution than the others.

 

Hey guys, please take the discussions to the main forum. This thread should be for answers to frequent questions only. Thanks.

 

When to slab or not to slab a coin

I use this criteria as a basis for whether to slab or not to slab: (1) The coin should be more valuable than the cost of grading the coin. So some common dates would not apply except: (A) the coin has superior eye appeal or (B) It is a coin from a relative or loved one. Here, slabbing will allow the coin not to endure further damage. Slabbing will protect the coin. Here, the sentimental value out weighs the cost of slabbing.
(2) Having a coin slabbed protects the coin as well as having it attributed. Use reputable third party graders.
(3) the third party grading service should be one you are confortable with. In the case of Morgan Dollars, my preference is with NGC or PCGS.
However, you need to research a third party grading company you will be, or are confortable with.
(4) Attribution. Morgan dollars and Peace dollars can be attributed for their VAM designation without grading the coin. In this case, typically, five dollars covers the cost of slabbing.
I hope you find this criteria useful.

 

What is the recommended slabbing service when sending your U.S/World coins from Canada?

Thank You

 

ANACS, ICG, NGC, and PCGS.

Charlie

 

I definately believe in slabbing coins.I had a bust dollar with VF details but had been lighty cleaned in the past. There were also some unsightly marks on the face of the coin which made it a problem coin: I had it slabbed byANACS. I was then able to sell it for $400 dollars more than before slabbing which was 3 times more than I had paid for it 10 years earlier.