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<p>[QUOTE="V. Kurt Bellman, post: 3152945, member: 71723"]I agree with that article and use none of them. I use an Eastman Kodak stain remover intended to de-stain darkroom textiles and fine clothing. It uses NONE of the acids spoken of in your linked article. "Sulfuric, formic, hydrochloric and phosphoric acids". Mine uses citric acid and is very gentle. I have never had a coin rejected as overdipped, even though it removes all toning given enough time, including a dip time of over 30 minutes once.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]808069[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>I then often dilute this farther with water. This is a slide from one of my 6 Money Talks given at ANA conventions, including one when they were called Numismatic Theater talks.</p><p><br /></p><p>Because y'see, there are OTHER people who have turned a few laps around the old Brickyard other than just our moderators.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="V. Kurt Bellman, post: 3152945, member: 71723"]I agree with that article and use none of them. I use an Eastman Kodak stain remover intended to de-stain darkroom textiles and fine clothing. It uses NONE of the acids spoken of in your linked article. "Sulfuric, formic, hydrochloric and phosphoric acids". Mine uses citric acid and is very gentle. I have never had a coin rejected as overdipped, even though it removes all toning given enough time, including a dip time of over 30 minutes once. [ATTACH=full]808069[/ATTACH] I then often dilute this farther with water. This is a slide from one of my 6 Money Talks given at ANA conventions, including one when they were called Numismatic Theater talks. Because y'see, there are OTHER people who have turned a few laps around the old Brickyard other than just our moderators.[/QUOTE]
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