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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;John Burgess, post: 7633235, member: 105098&quot;]Hi again Chaddy,</p><p><br /></p><p>Not exactly&nbsp; the 1968 dime is the PROOF Set dime, not the mint set dime,</p><p><br /></p><p>All of the proof set coins have an S mint mark, and a different finish (mirrored/ or highly polished looking), the rare one is the dime from that set that&#039;s missing the S.</p><p><br /></p><p>If it&#039;s the mint set, Philadelphia doesn&#039;t put a P on their coins, all of the 1968 dimes from Philly have no mint mark and this is normal and not an error.</p><p><br /></p><p>A 1968 P dime from a mint set is likely to come back in MS66 or MS65.&nbsp; and is $10-$15, possibly as high as $40 if it get a &quot;FB&quot; (full bands) designation on it.</p><p><br /></p><p>if it costs you $30 to submit, and another $20 for the shipping, it&#039;s a loss to submit it when you sell it unless you get at least $50 for it, and that&#039;s just to break even.</p><p><br /></p><p>the 1968 cents, regardless of mint, again, most likley to come back MS65 or MS66 and a high possibility of MS64 as an option to, in MS64 each is like $8-$10, and in MS66 each is like $8-$30 depending on the mint mark.</p><p><br /></p><p>Again if it costs you $30 for grading and $20 for shipping, what&#039;s the point when you&#039;d need $50 just to break even after sending it in. I get it though, some folks want to take a loss to preserve a coin for sentimental reasons, and I&#039;m fine with that if that&#039;s what you want to do.</p><p><br /></p><p>I didn&#039;t want to look everything up on my first response, it&#039;s some work, but feel like you are really new to this, and it&#039;s a learning opportunity and I should teach some. not bad I suppose, it didn&#039;t hurt as much as I thought it would. LOL</p><p><br /></p><p>The only reason that 1968 dime &quot;no mintmark&quot; is valued so highly is it has a proof finish, came in the proof set, and doesn&#039;t have the S mintmark that it should have on it, and very few (a dozen or less) were found like that.</p><p>Every other dime without a mintmark that isn&#039;t a proof strike coin, is a normal Philly dime and not supposed to have a mintmark on it and no where near that kind of value.</p><p><br /></p><p>the blue striped mint set pack is from the Philidelphia mint, the Red stripe pack is from the Denver Mint, they stick the S mint coins whereever they like, LOL, but Philly doesn&#039;t put mintmarks on cents except in 2017. </p><p><br /></p><p>Philly mint didn&#039;t mintmark their coins except nickels between 1942-1945. They added a &quot;P&quot; mintmark to everything except the cent from 1980 onward.</p><p>And they put a P on the 2017 cent that one year.</p><p><br /></p><p>A beginner would never know this information about Philly mintmarks, it comes with experience in collecting.</p><p><br /></p><p>Good luck and be blessed![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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