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<p>[QUOTE="Insider, post: 8206484, member: 24314"]IMHO, grading bullion and modern coins in the highest grades is very easy. If you use you very strict personal standards, you'll find that your grade either matches a TPGS slab or your grade is slightly lower. Coins like SE and modern large commemoratives are usually graded w/o magnification so by using a 5X to 7X hand lens will put you one step ahead of graders. </p><p><br /></p><p>My MS-70 needs to be PERFECT under low magnification. If I see one tiny spot, hit or hairline (esp. on Proofs) it is no longer perfect. I even downgrade (personally) for breaks in a coins surface by tiny mint-made strike thrus! However, they are OK when commercial grading at a TPGS. So, I just explained two grades MS/PR-70 & MS/PR-69. Add 3-4 extremely tiny defects and you get a MS/PR-68. The 67/68 line is harder as now you must deal with variables like location, severity, eye appeal, etc.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Insider, post: 8206484, member: 24314"]IMHO, grading bullion and modern coins in the highest grades is very easy. If you use you very strict personal standards, you'll find that your grade either matches a TPGS slab or your grade is slightly lower. Coins like SE and modern large commemoratives are usually graded w/o magnification so by using a 5X to 7X hand lens will put you one step ahead of graders. My MS-70 needs to be PERFECT under low magnification. If I see one tiny spot, hit or hairline (esp. on Proofs) it is no longer perfect. I even downgrade (personally) for breaks in a coins surface by tiny mint-made strike thrus! However, they are OK when commercial grading at a TPGS. So, I just explained two grades MS/PR-70 & MS/PR-69. Add 3-4 extremely tiny defects and you get a MS/PR-68. The 67/68 line is harder as now you must deal with variables like location, severity, eye appeal, etc.[/QUOTE]
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To grade or not to grade? (2015 P penny)
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