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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;BooksB4Coins, post: 2728049, member: 36230&quot;]Your coins are business strikes (&quot;non-proof&quot; if you will). If you look in your red book for 1990 Philadelphia minted cents, this is what you have. I don&#039;t know what you&#039;re looking at on eBay, and for this reason cannot directly address it, but am guessing it either comes down to not yet understanding proof vs. business strike, or that someone is trying to hawk a Philly cent as a &quot;no-S proof&quot; (it does happen). Feel free to post links if you&#039;d like.</p><p><br /></p><p>A &quot;proof&quot; coin is made specifically for collectors, and was produced using different methods than every day (business strike) coins are. If you could compare the two types side by side, the differences are quite obvious (at least in this case). Let me see if I can find a link, with photo examples, able to explain this better than I can.</p><p><br /></p><p>EDIT:</p><p><br /></p><p>After just a very quick search....</p><p><br /></p><p>This is a photo of one each of the two types, both modern cents. The one of the left is a business strike (like your coins) and on the right is a proof (the valuable type in this case)...</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.davescollectiblecoins.com/template/CustomPictures/ProofBUComparison.jpg" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.davescollectiblecoins.com/template/CustomPictures/ProofBUComparison.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://www.davescollectiblecoins.com/template/CustomPictures/ProofBUComparison.jpg</a></p><p><br /></p><p>This seems a decent starter link and explains some of the basics...</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.coingrading.com/isitproof1.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.coingrading.com/isitproof1.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.coingrading.com/isitproof1.html</a>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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