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Thoughts on cabinet friction from a professional grader.
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<p>[QUOTE="RonSanderson, post: 3512938, member: 77413"]Here I go then: a new grading scale that corrects all the faults of the faulty Sheldon scale. Off the top of my head, we have issues with</p><ul> <li>Cabinet friction, stacking friction and defining the AU/MS boundary</li> <li>Denoting color. You see muddy coins that grade 66 and rainbow toners that get a star.</li> <li>TPGs don’t seem to care about strike. Yet, to compensate they make strange designations of FS, FB, FBL, that only focus on a single feature and still don’t capture the overall strike</li> </ul><p>The mere existence of band-aids and add-on notations is all the proof we need that the current system falls short.</p><p><br /></p><p>To start, let’s scale wear from 1-60. Cabinet friction may knock a perfect coin down to 59 or 58. But we now have a way to account for it that is a natural part of the grading scale. But all uncirculated coins start their overall rating right around 60, and all circulated grades are still the same as they are now.</p><p><br /></p><p>Add on a rating for strike, 1-10. This will do away with add-on notations for “full” lines, head, steps, bands and so on. Instead, all features come into play.</p><p><br /></p><p>Take Standing Liberty quarters, for example. Yes, a full head is nice, but a full shield with all rivets and a fully rounded leg are just as hard to achieve. If all are present, give the full 10 points.</p><p><br /></p><p>Next, color. 0 for original, 10 for dazzling. Bad color can be deducted in the next category.</p><p><br /></p><p>Tarnished / stained. 0 for blast white to -5.</p><p><br /></p><p>Damage always detracts. 0 to -30, with holing or tooling covered at the extreme. (This can be a catchall for most issues of surface preservation, including the beating taken by most Morgans. If they are badly scuffed start them off at -10 or so.)</p><p><br /></p><p>Luster 0 to 10.</p><p><br /></p><p>I may have missed a category or two (proof-like finish?), but with this scale we can give an “appraisal” score of 0 to 100 right on the holder. Add a barcode or QR code to encode the individual categories and you can scan it with a phone to get the full breakdown. For example, when scanning listings I could filter out all coins with a Strike rating less than 7, since I like well-struck coins.</p><p><br /></p><p>Not all categories need equal weight. Some might only range from 1 to 4 and some to 10 to account for their importance.</p><p><br /></p><p>Hmmm, the “Ron” grading scale. Sounds pretty good to me...[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="RonSanderson, post: 3512938, member: 77413"]Here I go then: a new grading scale that corrects all the faults of the faulty Sheldon scale. Off the top of my head, we have issues with [LIST] [*]Cabinet friction, stacking friction and defining the AU/MS boundary [*]Denoting color. You see muddy coins that grade 66 and rainbow toners that get a star. [*]TPGs don’t seem to care about strike. Yet, to compensate they make strange designations of FS, FB, FBL, that only focus on a single feature and still don’t capture the overall strike [/LIST] The mere existence of band-aids and add-on notations is all the proof we need that the current system falls short. To start, let’s scale wear from 1-60. Cabinet friction may knock a perfect coin down to 59 or 58. But we now have a way to account for it that is a natural part of the grading scale. But all uncirculated coins start their overall rating right around 60, and all circulated grades are still the same as they are now. Add on a rating for strike, 1-10. This will do away with add-on notations for “full” lines, head, steps, bands and so on. Instead, all features come into play. Take Standing Liberty quarters, for example. Yes, a full head is nice, but a full shield with all rivets and a fully rounded leg are just as hard to achieve. If all are present, give the full 10 points. Next, color. 0 for original, 10 for dazzling. Bad color can be deducted in the next category. Tarnished / stained. 0 for blast white to -5. Damage always detracts. 0 to -30, with holing or tooling covered at the extreme. (This can be a catchall for most issues of surface preservation, including the beating taken by most Morgans. If they are badly scuffed start them off at -10 or so.) Luster 0 to 10. I may have missed a category or two (proof-like finish?), but with this scale we can give an “appraisal” score of 0 to 100 right on the holder. Add a barcode or QR code to encode the individual categories and you can scan it with a phone to get the full breakdown. For example, when scanning listings I could filter out all coins with a Strike rating less than 7, since I like well-struck coins. Not all categories need equal weight. Some might only range from 1 to 4 and some to 10 to account for their importance. Hmmm, the “Ron” grading scale. Sounds pretty good to me...[/QUOTE]
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