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This is why I need to stop buying raw coins...
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<p>[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 25239642, member: 13650"]When I started collecting I was pretty forgiving of any raw coin that looked nice. Not the case any more. Once you learn what to look for you can find problems on almost any raw coin offered for sale that's not a modern. Especially coppers. I can't say the vast majority are fine. The vast majority are not with a few exceptions. I have nabbed a few off ebay over the years and got them straight graded with moderate success. Most pics on ebay give you no chance to tell what you're actually getting.</p><p> Of course there are many sub $100 coins that are common, low grade and simply not worth sending in. Millions of them. In that instance the risk is low enough to where it's not really worth worrying about. I wont deny that. This discussion is moot at that point. The risk of loss is much smaller. </p><p><br /></p><p> I'm talking about you have two of the same trade dollar. One is straight graded and one is raw next to it and they're both $2,000. Which one are you going to buy? There's too much risk to pass on one that's already been evaluated and encapsulated. Maybe a shop has five of them all ungraded. Why? There's a good chance they were crack outs.</p><p> Not every coin I buy is perfect. I've bought some tougher coins and ended up with details grades but am still happy with them. I bought a 1859 IHC that looks practically low MS for $100. Because it has small initials engraved in the back. I knew when I bought it. It still looks way better than all of the AU examples I've looked at that sellers wanted 2 to $300+ for so i haven't upgraded it. So far I would not trade it even up for the straight graded AU examples I've seen, despite being a details grade. It all depends on what it is. Some coins are tougher than others and a lot of money can be saved if you can live with the problems. Others are common enough where there's no point in settling for a details example really.</p><p><br /></p><p> The 1818 CBH in the other thread is another good example. The OP wanted a grade and assumed it would straight grade. It would not. The purchase price on it raw is probably higher than it would be in the details slab because they're going to hope somebody comes along not paying attention. It's old after all. BUT if you were selling it you can guarantee it'll be under a microscope and somebody may or may not give you an offer on it. If they do, it'll be lowball. You can buy all you want, not care, and even claim moral superiority because of it. Turning around and grading, trading or selling is when most will get a full education.</p><p><br /></p><p> At shows I've witnessed people bringing everything in under the sun to sell and I have heard every used car salesman excuse on what's wrong with people's stuff, even slabbed, and why the dealer can't buy it or will offer a lowball offer. Usually the table is set with, "I can't sell those, these are common, or I already have a bunch. Or, it's been cleaned. Or I don't sell ASEs/moderns/ ancients/ foreigns,etc.. you name it." </p><p> It's fine buying cleaned raw coins, the key is to not over pay to begin with because this is what you'll deal with if you ever want to flip it. If it's just going to be your opinion vs the buyer's opinion, good luck with that nowadays.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 25239642, member: 13650"]When I started collecting I was pretty forgiving of any raw coin that looked nice. Not the case any more. Once you learn what to look for you can find problems on almost any raw coin offered for sale that's not a modern. Especially coppers. I can't say the vast majority are fine. The vast majority are not with a few exceptions. I have nabbed a few off ebay over the years and got them straight graded with moderate success. Most pics on ebay give you no chance to tell what you're actually getting. Of course there are many sub $100 coins that are common, low grade and simply not worth sending in. Millions of them. In that instance the risk is low enough to where it's not really worth worrying about. I wont deny that. This discussion is moot at that point. The risk of loss is much smaller. I'm talking about you have two of the same trade dollar. One is straight graded and one is raw next to it and they're both $2,000. Which one are you going to buy? There's too much risk to pass on one that's already been evaluated and encapsulated. Maybe a shop has five of them all ungraded. Why? There's a good chance they were crack outs. Not every coin I buy is perfect. I've bought some tougher coins and ended up with details grades but am still happy with them. I bought a 1859 IHC that looks practically low MS for $100. Because it has small initials engraved in the back. I knew when I bought it. It still looks way better than all of the AU examples I've looked at that sellers wanted 2 to $300+ for so i haven't upgraded it. So far I would not trade it even up for the straight graded AU examples I've seen, despite being a details grade. It all depends on what it is. Some coins are tougher than others and a lot of money can be saved if you can live with the problems. Others are common enough where there's no point in settling for a details example really. The 1818 CBH in the other thread is another good example. The OP wanted a grade and assumed it would straight grade. It would not. The purchase price on it raw is probably higher than it would be in the details slab because they're going to hope somebody comes along not paying attention. It's old after all. BUT if you were selling it you can guarantee it'll be under a microscope and somebody may or may not give you an offer on it. If they do, it'll be lowball. You can buy all you want, not care, and even claim moral superiority because of it. Turning around and grading, trading or selling is when most will get a full education. At shows I've witnessed people bringing everything in under the sun to sell and I have heard every used car salesman excuse on what's wrong with people's stuff, even slabbed, and why the dealer can't buy it or will offer a lowball offer. Usually the table is set with, "I can't sell those, these are common, or I already have a bunch. Or, it's been cleaned. Or I don't sell ASEs/moderns/ ancients/ foreigns,etc.. you name it." It's fine buying cleaned raw coins, the key is to not over pay to begin with because this is what you'll deal with if you ever want to flip it. If it's just going to be your opinion vs the buyer's opinion, good luck with that nowadays.[/QUOTE]
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This is why I need to stop buying raw coins...
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