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<p>[QUOTE="kanga, post: 489380, member: 9270"]I agree with the birthyear aspect of the purchase.</p><p>Certainly a consideration.</p><p> </p><p><b>CamaroDMD</b>, instead of a single special coin from your birthyear (since there doesn't seem to be one), consider a high grade birthyear set.</p><p>All the coins struck in 1985 (including proofs) shouldn't be too expensive in MS- or PF-68 or -67.</p><p> </p><p>I did it for my birthyear but ignored the proofs.</p><p>My cents are all MS-66RD.</p><p>The nickels are all MS-65FS.</p><p>The dimes are all MS-65FB.</p><p>The quarters are all MS-65.</p><p>The "P" and "D" halves are MS-65; the "S" half is MS-64.</p><p> </p><p><u>The Year</u>: 1941</p><p>That explains why the "S" half is only MS-64.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="kanga, post: 489380, member: 9270"]I agree with the birthyear aspect of the purchase. Certainly a consideration. [B]CamaroDMD[/B], instead of a single special coin from your birthyear (since there doesn't seem to be one), consider a high grade birthyear set. All the coins struck in 1985 (including proofs) shouldn't be too expensive in MS- or PF-68 or -67. I did it for my birthyear but ignored the proofs. My cents are all MS-66RD. The nickels are all MS-65FS. The dimes are all MS-65FB. The quarters are all MS-65. The "P" and "D" halves are MS-65; the "S" half is MS-64. [U]The Year[/U]: 1941 That explains why the "S" half is only MS-64.[/QUOTE]
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