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<p>[QUOTE="YoloBagels, post: 5401170, member: 94739"]Many of your decisions will really depend on your budget. If I had a modest amount to spend on walkers I'd shoot for MS on the mid-1930's up and lower grades for earlier and especially key dates (1916S, 1921P, D, and S). Just remember it's not a bad idea to buy the keys first then take out the common dates. This just happens to be a series where some dates will command a significant premium in MS as opposed to common dates.</p><p><br /></p><p>Grading walkers in MS is much more difficult than other coins of that era IMO. They are notorious for weak strikes and it can be tough for the untrained eye to tell from wear to weak strike. The prime focal areas on the obverse is Liberty's torso from the knees to the breast. The hand is usually your key to determining a weak strike.</p><p><br /></p><p>From what I have heard, <i>the complete guide to walking liberty half dollars </i>by Bruce W Fox is your go-to book for walkers. I see one on Ebay for $80.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="YoloBagels, post: 5401170, member: 94739"]Many of your decisions will really depend on your budget. If I had a modest amount to spend on walkers I'd shoot for MS on the mid-1930's up and lower grades for earlier and especially key dates (1916S, 1921P, D, and S). Just remember it's not a bad idea to buy the keys first then take out the common dates. This just happens to be a series where some dates will command a significant premium in MS as opposed to common dates. Grading walkers in MS is much more difficult than other coins of that era IMO. They are notorious for weak strikes and it can be tough for the untrained eye to tell from wear to weak strike. The prime focal areas on the obverse is Liberty's torso from the knees to the breast. The hand is usually your key to determining a weak strike. From what I have heard, [I]the complete guide to walking liberty half dollars [/I]by Bruce W Fox is your go-to book for walkers. I see one on Ebay for $80.[/QUOTE]
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