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<p>[QUOTE="physics-fan3.14, post: 2383691, member: 19165"]Well, you obviously liked the coin, so that is why you bought it. I'm going to be more blunt than the others. My goal is not to offend, but to educate (if you already knew all this, then good for you): </p><p><br /></p><p>1. The coin is not FSB. If it was, you would have gotten a good price and paid a fair value. However, look at the middle set of bands. There is a pretty severe mark just right of center, and the bands are joined at the left.* There is bridging on the top set of bands as well (not sure if ANACS used all three sets to judge, like NGC, or just the middle set, like PCGS).</p><p><br /></p><p>2. The obverse toning, in the proper light, will probably be attractive.* You will see some of the blue, but it will be darker than the pictures indicate (unless lit exactly right). The reverse toning, however, will appear to be essentially black in hand (it is the very darkest shade of blue already in the picture, with really strong lights). If you like this, well, go ahead and buy it. I'm not a fan of it myself, but we each have different tastes. </p><p><br /></p><p>3. Die cracks are extremely common on most series. There is no premium for these unless they are an indicator of a rare die variety. Mercs are not collected by die variety. </p><p><br /></p><p>4. The small white ANACS holders are a cool piece of history, and usually fairly accurate in grade (although, because of selection bias, less so than they used to be). There may be a small premium of a couple/few dollars for a white holder on a low priced coin, but not much. </p><p><br /></p><p>5. 66FSB price guide is $145, 66 price guide is $48. So (assuming I'm correct that the bands wouldn't meet today's FB standards), you paid a really strong price for some dark/black toning, die cracks, and a small white ANACS holder. </p><p><br /></p><p>6. One of the absolute worst questions that a collector can ask is "Was this thing which I have already bought worth the price that I paid for it?" Why did you buy it if you weren't sure it was worth it? Would you buy a TV, or a car, or a cheeseburger if you didn't know how much it was worth? There are many free price guides available - the time to do your research is *before* you buy a coin, not after. </p><p><br /></p><p>Sorry if I'm sounding mean (I don't intend to, I just do sometimes). In the grand scheme of things, you really didn't do too badly. But, you asked the questions. </p><p><br /></p><p>* The typical caveat applies - I am judging from pictures. In hand, my opinion may be different.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="physics-fan3.14, post: 2383691, member: 19165"]Well, you obviously liked the coin, so that is why you bought it. I'm going to be more blunt than the others. My goal is not to offend, but to educate (if you already knew all this, then good for you): 1. The coin is not FSB. If it was, you would have gotten a good price and paid a fair value. However, look at the middle set of bands. There is a pretty severe mark just right of center, and the bands are joined at the left.* There is bridging on the top set of bands as well (not sure if ANACS used all three sets to judge, like NGC, or just the middle set, like PCGS). 2. The obverse toning, in the proper light, will probably be attractive.* You will see some of the blue, but it will be darker than the pictures indicate (unless lit exactly right). The reverse toning, however, will appear to be essentially black in hand (it is the very darkest shade of blue already in the picture, with really strong lights). If you like this, well, go ahead and buy it. I'm not a fan of it myself, but we each have different tastes. 3. Die cracks are extremely common on most series. There is no premium for these unless they are an indicator of a rare die variety. Mercs are not collected by die variety. 4. The small white ANACS holders are a cool piece of history, and usually fairly accurate in grade (although, because of selection bias, less so than they used to be). There may be a small premium of a couple/few dollars for a white holder on a low priced coin, but not much. 5. 66FSB price guide is $145, 66 price guide is $48. So (assuming I'm correct that the bands wouldn't meet today's FB standards), you paid a really strong price for some dark/black toning, die cracks, and a small white ANACS holder. 6. One of the absolute worst questions that a collector can ask is "Was this thing which I have already bought worth the price that I paid for it?" Why did you buy it if you weren't sure it was worth it? Would you buy a TV, or a car, or a cheeseburger if you didn't know how much it was worth? There are many free price guides available - the time to do your research is *before* you buy a coin, not after. Sorry if I'm sounding mean (I don't intend to, I just do sometimes). In the grand scheme of things, you really didn't do too badly. But, you asked the questions. * The typical caveat applies - I am judging from pictures. In hand, my opinion may be different.[/QUOTE]
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