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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;jtlee321, post: 5074053, member: 73983&quot;]I tend to use a minimum of 3 lights.&nbsp; Proofs can be a real pain to shoot, especially if there is no cameo on the devices involved.&nbsp; Unless a proof coin has gorgeous toning, I typically shoot it so the fields go black.&nbsp; To do this, I aim the lights at the coin at a low angle, that way the light reflects way from the lens.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now if the coin has no frosty devices, such as you find with the 1950 Dime you have above, then I light the field so that it gives a strong black and white contrast, indicating the mirrored fields and devices.&nbsp; Here is a 1950 Proof dime just like the one you posted in the OP.&nbsp; But the key is multiple lights.</p><p><br /></p><p>The obverse had fairly deeply curved fields, so the contrast affect is much easier to see in the fields and suggests that they are very reflective.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1202211[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>The reverse fields are very flat and reflect the light uniformly.&nbsp; Therefor they go almost white with a strong contrast to the areas of the devices that don&#039;t reflect the light, again, suggesting very reflective surfaces.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1202212[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>Here is the Franklin Half from the same set.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1202218[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1202219[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>And the Washington Quarter.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1202223[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1202224[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>To achieve this look, just adjust the angle that the light is projected down onto the surface of the coin.&nbsp; A higher angle of light will light up the fields.&nbsp; You can very easily see that these coins are all proofs and not typical business strike coins.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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