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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;dougsmit, post: 2536923, member: 19463&quot;]For most uses I found a great improvement when I went to a full frame camera but I&#039;m not sure you would with all the way you use the rig.&nbsp; Moving to FF requires either a longer focal length or a closer working distance by the same factor as your old camera&#039;s crop factor.&nbsp; You do gain a bit in diffraction avoidance but having to work closer means you are changing the effective aperture if you fill the frame.&nbsp; I have a Canon 5DmkII (far from the latest model now) but I&#039;m not sure that you might not be as well off with the original 5D and its larger pixels.&nbsp; They are cheap used but I do not recommend them because of the lack of a sensor cleaning routine and the problems caused by sensor dust on older models.&nbsp; I tried a few lenses I had and decided your method was not for me.&nbsp; The ancients I shoot limit the resolution as much as the camera equipment.&nbsp; High relief coins benefit from greater working distances more than Lincolns.&nbsp; There are corrections available both in camera and in RAW conversion that can improve some situations.&nbsp; I really like Canon DPP software (comes free with the cameras).&nbsp; Another toy to play with is focus stacking software which might mean more to me than you but it does smooth out some problems.&nbsp; Exactly how much of the difference gained by apochromatic correction, field shape etc. can be offset by software is a subject that needs to be studied by people who have a grasp on all of the controls available.&nbsp; I do know that coin photography, like coin collecting, has many different avenues to explore.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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