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<p>[QUOTE="SuperDave, post: 2535730, member: 1892"]Depends on what attachment thread comes with the lens. It's very likely M39 (Leica) or M42 (Pentax) threads, meaning you'll need an adapter. Either way, it will not function automatically; the camera won't "see" the lens so you'll be working manually, adjusting aperture at the lens and all other settings in-camera. Further, you'll need some sort of equipment with which to set magnification (bellows, spacers, etc.) and focus (focusing rail, helicoid).</p><p><br /></p><p>This is the price those of us who use duplicating lenses for imagery have to pay - needing to learn the nuts and bolts of photography in detail. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Aperture is kind of forced upon you mathematically by diffraction - you use the smallest (numerically largest) aperture number which keeps your particular camera out of diffraction. ISO is always best set at the lowest number you can still achieve a reasonable exposure with, which itself depends on how steady your mount is; with a good solid mount and careful technique you can go as slow as 1/8 or even longer. In the coin photography niche, we create a final product which easily shows the slightest of noise caused by higher ISO.</p><p><br /></p><p>Then, as Ray mentions, you use Aperture Priority and let the camera do what it can for you. Me, I usually use full Manual operation, because I've run into situations (especially with darker/circulated copper) where I prefer a different exposure than the camera chooses to get closer to the "in-hand" look (usually a faster exposure than the camera wants). But either way Exposure is the only setting which is really a "variable" in the process.</p><p><br /></p><p>Poor time for this information to show up; no lenses in my budget this week. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="SuperDave, post: 2535730, member: 1892"]Depends on what attachment thread comes with the lens. It's very likely M39 (Leica) or M42 (Pentax) threads, meaning you'll need an adapter. Either way, it will not function automatically; the camera won't "see" the lens so you'll be working manually, adjusting aperture at the lens and all other settings in-camera. Further, you'll need some sort of equipment with which to set magnification (bellows, spacers, etc.) and focus (focusing rail, helicoid). This is the price those of us who use duplicating lenses for imagery have to pay - needing to learn the nuts and bolts of photography in detail. :) Aperture is kind of forced upon you mathematically by diffraction - you use the smallest (numerically largest) aperture number which keeps your particular camera out of diffraction. ISO is always best set at the lowest number you can still achieve a reasonable exposure with, which itself depends on how steady your mount is; with a good solid mount and careful technique you can go as slow as 1/8 or even longer. In the coin photography niche, we create a final product which easily shows the slightest of noise caused by higher ISO. Then, as Ray mentions, you use Aperture Priority and let the camera do what it can for you. Me, I usually use full Manual operation, because I've run into situations (especially with darker/circulated copper) where I prefer a different exposure than the camera chooses to get closer to the "in-hand" look (usually a faster exposure than the camera wants). But either way Exposure is the only setting which is really a "variable" in the process. Poor time for this information to show up; no lenses in my budget this week. :)[/QUOTE]
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