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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;jtlee321, post: 2363644, member: 73983&quot;]No problem.&nbsp; What I use is a Nikon D800E digital SLR mounted on a copy stand using a Rodenstock enlarging lens and a bellows system.&nbsp; I use either 2 or 3 Jansjo lights with diffusion on them.&nbsp; I set the light&#039;s above the coin right next to the lens.&nbsp; I move the lights around just slightly until I get a nice even illumination of the coins entire surface.&nbsp; High angle lighting will help reduce the hot spot&#039;s you see on most coins.</p><p><br /></p><p>I don&#039;t use any filter&#039;s.&nbsp; I have small pedestal I rest the coins on and set them against a black velvet background.&nbsp; [USER=1892]@SuperDave[/USER] is very familiar with the techniques.&nbsp; I shoot RAW files and convert them in Photoshop.&nbsp; I use a levels adjustment layer to bring the coins shadow and highlights to where they should be, to match the coins in hand look.&nbsp; If the coin is toned, I will use a lighting method known as axial lighting to show the color.&nbsp; It&#039;s no different than any other good numismatic photographer including the PCGS TrueView method.&nbsp; Although, I do think the TrueView images are a bit more enhanced.&nbsp; More of a glamour shot.&nbsp; Any editing I do is to show the coin as closely as possible to it&#039;s in hand appearance.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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