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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Oldhoopster, post: 2960954, member: 84179&quot;]Very nice pics.&nbsp; That makes it easy to determine that you are looking at machine doubling which has no added value.</p><p><br /></p><p>Your coin clearly shows flat, shelf-like doubling.&nbsp; This is a key characteristic of machine doubling.&nbsp; As [USER=24544]@beef1020[/USER] and other have explained, this is caused by the die moving or bouncing as it strikes the coin.&nbsp; Any mechanical fixture is going to loosen slightly with use and this minor movement is what causes mechanical doubling.&nbsp; Also, as [USER=24544]@beef1020[/USER] explained, this can be a common occurrence that will continue until a technician retightens the die fixtures.&nbsp; Remember, each press can make thousands of coins an hour and there are multiple presses, so that’s a lot of coins that can be struck before a tech visits the machine to do PM.&nbsp; In addition, the mint is a high volume production facility; downtime = $$$, so they aren’t going to shut down a press to fix a minor issue that produces a defect so small that it can only be seen with a magnifying glass and doesn’t compromise form, fit or function</p><p><br /></p><p>The other key point is the doubling on the “S” mintmark. Your coin exhibits the a flat, shelf-like doubling of the mint mark as well as the date.&nbsp; A true doubled die occurs during the die manufacturing process (Once again, please read some of the previous explanation on how dies are made). The mint marks were put on manually AFTER the hubbing process, so it is impossible for it to have the same doubled appearance as the date and, therefore, also indicates machine doubling.</p><p><br /></p><p>Hope this info adds to previous explanations and is helpful.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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