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<p>[QUOTE="Lehigh96, post: 1409225, member: 15309"]I think the major problem with a comprehensive system for scoring toned coins is the inherent subjectivity involved when evaluating toning. Even among toning enthusiasts, we all have different opinions of what appeals to us and what is or is not a monster. I applaud your effort to create a scoring system and I like the overall concept. I just don't know if I could break down my appreciation of toning to 25% for each of the 4 categories you have listed. I would rather just score my overall opinion of the toning and then multiply it by 4. Right now you use a scale of 1 to 5 for each color category for both obverse and reverse. I would be more inclined to use a scale from 1 to 10 that included half grades and multiply by 4. I don't know much about toned proofs but from viewing your coins, it seems obvious that most coins if toned, are toned on both sides. This is not so in the mint state world and it seems unfair to penalize a monster bag toned Morgan Dollar simply because the toning was only on one side of the coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>Again, I do use all four criteria that you use in my analysis but instead of having each worth the same amount, I would rather evaluate the color as a whole but know that my score incorporated each category. In essence, I think that the importance of your subcategories can change from coin to coin. Let's look at the obverse of two of my Jefferson Nickels to see what I am talking about.</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Jefferson%20Nickels%20Full%20Steps/JN1941-DNGCMS67Star5FS.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Jefferson%20Nickel%20Registry/JN1950PCGSMS66.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Based on your criteria, both coins would have similar grade. I would grade the 1941-D as follows: 5 (Impression), 4 (Transition), 5 (Coordination), 5 (Rarity) yielding a total of 19. I would grade the 1950 as follows: 3 (Impression), 4 (Transition), 5 (Coordination), 5 (Rarity) yielding a total of 17.</p><p><br /></p><p>Using my criteria, the coins would have much different grades. IMO, the 1941-D is the finest toned regular issue Jefferson Nickel I have ever seen and would grade a perfect 10 yielding a total score of 20. The 1950 while nice simply doesn't deliver a great impression to the viewer due to a lack of vibrancy in the color and I would grade it a 6.5 yielding a total score of 13. So while the transitions, coordination, and rarity of the color are very similar on both coins, the impression of the color is simply much more important than 25% with relation to both of these coins. So much so that the Impression basically makes the other criteria trivial. The end result is that I paid a premium of over 5X PCGS price guide to obtain the 1941-D while paying 1/2 of PCGS price guide for the 1950.</p><p><br /></p><p>My intent here is not to criticize your method which I think is groundbreaking and very outside of the box. I just would like to point out that it may be too specific in order to handle the inherent subjectivity of toning. By creating such specific criteria, there may be times where you paint yourself into a corner. I think the only other time I have seen an attempt to quantify toning was a method proposed by Ron Sirna who was one of the founding members of the TCCS (Toned Coin Collectors Society). Unfortunately, that site no longer exists and I never made a copy of his method.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Lehigh96, post: 1409225, member: 15309"]I think the major problem with a comprehensive system for scoring toned coins is the inherent subjectivity involved when evaluating toning. Even among toning enthusiasts, we all have different opinions of what appeals to us and what is or is not a monster. I applaud your effort to create a scoring system and I like the overall concept. I just don't know if I could break down my appreciation of toning to 25% for each of the 4 categories you have listed. I would rather just score my overall opinion of the toning and then multiply it by 4. Right now you use a scale of 1 to 5 for each color category for both obverse and reverse. I would be more inclined to use a scale from 1 to 10 that included half grades and multiply by 4. I don't know much about toned proofs but from viewing your coins, it seems obvious that most coins if toned, are toned on both sides. This is not so in the mint state world and it seems unfair to penalize a monster bag toned Morgan Dollar simply because the toning was only on one side of the coin. Again, I do use all four criteria that you use in my analysis but instead of having each worth the same amount, I would rather evaluate the color as a whole but know that my score incorporated each category. In essence, I think that the importance of your subcategories can change from coin to coin. Let's look at the obverse of two of my Jefferson Nickels to see what I am talking about. [IMG]http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Jefferson%20Nickels%20Full%20Steps/JN1941-DNGCMS67Star5FS.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Jefferson%20Nickel%20Registry/JN1950PCGSMS66.jpg[/IMG] Based on your criteria, both coins would have similar grade. I would grade the 1941-D as follows: 5 (Impression), 4 (Transition), 5 (Coordination), 5 (Rarity) yielding a total of 19. I would grade the 1950 as follows: 3 (Impression), 4 (Transition), 5 (Coordination), 5 (Rarity) yielding a total of 17. Using my criteria, the coins would have much different grades. IMO, the 1941-D is the finest toned regular issue Jefferson Nickel I have ever seen and would grade a perfect 10 yielding a total score of 20. The 1950 while nice simply doesn't deliver a great impression to the viewer due to a lack of vibrancy in the color and I would grade it a 6.5 yielding a total score of 13. So while the transitions, coordination, and rarity of the color are very similar on both coins, the impression of the color is simply much more important than 25% with relation to both of these coins. So much so that the Impression basically makes the other criteria trivial. The end result is that I paid a premium of over 5X PCGS price guide to obtain the 1941-D while paying 1/2 of PCGS price guide for the 1950. My intent here is not to criticize your method which I think is groundbreaking and very outside of the box. I just would like to point out that it may be too specific in order to handle the inherent subjectivity of toning. By creating such specific criteria, there may be times where you paint yourself into a corner. I think the only other time I have seen an attempt to quantify toning was a method proposed by Ron Sirna who was one of the founding members of the TCCS (Toned Coin Collectors Society). Unfortunately, that site no longer exists and I never made a copy of his method.[/QUOTE]
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