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<p>[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4938116, member: 112673"]I built my set up myself. My first set up version (all the parts are shown in the last image, below) was equally effective as my current set up, though not as user friendly. If you're even slightly handy, you should have no difficulty with it.</p><p> </p><p>It consisted of a piece of glass from an 8x10 picture frame. I mounted it to a couple of 2x4 blocks I cut on a 45-deg. angle to make a pair of right-angle triangle blocks, about 3” x 3” x 1 ½” thick.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1186612[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>I wrapped the blocks in white duct tape and applied dollar store Velcro to the 45 side of the block and a matching piece to the lower outer edges of the glass panel and stuck them together.</p><p><br /></p><p>On the right is a piece of black velvet that I stuck to a piece of black foam board ( also from the dollar store) with a glue gun.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you don't have a lazy Susan type spinner, like in the photo above, don't worry. I didn't at first, so I stuck felt feet to the bottom of the wooden block and I could just slide / turn the whole thing. I cannot stress enough the importance of turning the glass on the coins axis. Having the glass parallel to the light works best for only a small percentage of coins. You don't always need to turn it a lot, but you will turn it.</p><p><br /></p><p>I used this super simple type for over a year when I first started shooting coins. It's very sturdy.</p><p><br /></p><p>Took about 20 minutes in total to make.</p><p><br /></p><p>I stuck my camera on a tripod above the glass, and put a light about 18" beside it, to the left.</p><p><br /></p><p>I can save you a lot of experimentation by telling you that you also need a diffuser between the light and the coin. One that can be moved closer to the coin, or farther from it. The has an enormous impact on the contrast of the light on the coin. It also affects the exposure. Regarding the diffuser, I suggest you use something made for photography so it wont add any colour casts. I use a Lee 216 but that may not be easily available. It doesn't need to be big. I used a piece of white foam core board, with a square cut out, and taped a piece of diffuser to it.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1186642[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>I used the equipment above to make this image:</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1186716[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4938116, member: 112673"]I built my set up myself. My first set up version (all the parts are shown in the last image, below) was equally effective as my current set up, though not as user friendly. If you're even slightly handy, you should have no difficulty with it. It consisted of a piece of glass from an 8x10 picture frame. I mounted it to a couple of 2x4 blocks I cut on a 45-deg. angle to make a pair of right-angle triangle blocks, about 3” x 3” x 1 ½” thick. [ATTACH=full]1186612[/ATTACH] I wrapped the blocks in white duct tape and applied dollar store Velcro to the 45 side of the block and a matching piece to the lower outer edges of the glass panel and stuck them together. On the right is a piece of black velvet that I stuck to a piece of black foam board ( also from the dollar store) with a glue gun. If you don't have a lazy Susan type spinner, like in the photo above, don't worry. I didn't at first, so I stuck felt feet to the bottom of the wooden block and I could just slide / turn the whole thing. I cannot stress enough the importance of turning the glass on the coins axis. Having the glass parallel to the light works best for only a small percentage of coins. You don't always need to turn it a lot, but you will turn it. I used this super simple type for over a year when I first started shooting coins. It's very sturdy. Took about 20 minutes in total to make. I stuck my camera on a tripod above the glass, and put a light about 18" beside it, to the left. I can save you a lot of experimentation by telling you that you also need a diffuser between the light and the coin. One that can be moved closer to the coin, or farther from it. The has an enormous impact on the contrast of the light on the coin. It also affects the exposure. Regarding the diffuser, I suggest you use something made for photography so it wont add any colour casts. I use a Lee 216 but that may not be easily available. It doesn't need to be big. I used a piece of white foam core board, with a square cut out, and taped a piece of diffuser to it. [ATTACH=full]1186642[/ATTACH] I used the equipment above to make this image: [ATTACH=full]1186716[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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