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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 4893954, member: 19463"]<a href="https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm" rel="nofollow">https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm</a></p><p>While fine for a large sensor (full frame 35mm), f/14 will run afoul of diffraction limiting sharpness on cameras with very small sensors. The above link explains this well be it is a bit more technical that most people will want. To be on the safe side, I use f/11 with my 'full frame' camera and f/8 with the 1.6x crop factor cameras I previously used. Point and shoot cameras, depending on model, will need to use something in the f/4 to f/5.6 range to avoid diffraction limitation of sharpness. I had one point and shoot that would not stop down past f/11 because the manufacturer knew that people would be unhappy with the images. On the other hand, lenses used on an 8x10" view camera often stopped down to f/64 but negatives that size were usually used as contact prints without enlargement so there was no problem. </p><p><br /></p><p>If you are using a small point and shoot camera without interchangeable lenses, I would suggest trying f/5.6 at the most. If that does not do it you may have to choose between two kinds of unsharpness. Focus stacking is a great help but usually, in my experience, needed only when shooting coins at an angle as shown on the image below. Most people will not care to get that involved for normal needs. The four images at the right each have the plane of sharp focus in different places as indicated by the V marks. Software combines the images into one that is sharp everywhere. I have personally never done a focus stack over 100 images but coins often respond to 4 to 20 input images.</p><p>Click to enlarge.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1181134[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 4893954, member: 19463"][URL]https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm[/URL] While fine for a large sensor (full frame 35mm), f/14 will run afoul of diffraction limiting sharpness on cameras with very small sensors. The above link explains this well be it is a bit more technical that most people will want. To be on the safe side, I use f/11 with my 'full frame' camera and f/8 with the 1.6x crop factor cameras I previously used. Point and shoot cameras, depending on model, will need to use something in the f/4 to f/5.6 range to avoid diffraction limitation of sharpness. I had one point and shoot that would not stop down past f/11 because the manufacturer knew that people would be unhappy with the images. On the other hand, lenses used on an 8x10" view camera often stopped down to f/64 but negatives that size were usually used as contact prints without enlargement so there was no problem. If you are using a small point and shoot camera without interchangeable lenses, I would suggest trying f/5.6 at the most. If that does not do it you may have to choose between two kinds of unsharpness. Focus stacking is a great help but usually, in my experience, needed only when shooting coins at an angle as shown on the image below. Most people will not care to get that involved for normal needs. The four images at the right each have the plane of sharp focus in different places as indicated by the V marks. Software combines the images into one that is sharp everywhere. I have personally never done a focus stack over 100 images but coins often respond to 4 to 20 input images. Click to enlarge. [ATTACH=full]1181134[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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