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<p>[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4893616, member: 112673"]Most ancient coins don't lay flat. That's the nature of the way they were made I suppose. Photographically, that's not a problem, just another step added to the process. If the coin has a deeper focus area than you can capture in a single image, which some ancient coins do, you need to focus stack. Take a couple of pictures with the focus at different depths, for example, focus toward the front, then toward the back. The depth of field will overlap and you combine them in your editing software. I shoot at f14 which gives me a depth of field that covers 90% of the coins I shoot. What aperture are you shooting at? Try increasing it.</p><p><br /></p><p>This image is a single exposure at f14. Remember not to focus at the highest point of the coin; you’re wasting focus depth. There is available focus area in front of the point you are focusing on, so as a general rule, focus about 1/3 of the way into the area you want in sharp focus. In the image below, a 2,100 year old Alexander the Great silver tetradrachm, I focused on his eye, not his cheek or hair.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1181043[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>About moving the camera, I do that for almost every coin shot (which is another reason for a copy stand, because repositioning the camera with a tripod is a pain.) I try to get as many pixels on the product as possible, so I adjust the camera position to fill about 90% the frame with the coin; I don't want to be too close to the edge. Generally, coins less than 3/4" round are smaller than full frame at my 12" minimum focus distance, but otherwise, I fill the frame. Of course, when I'm shooting dozens of coins at once I group them by coin size so I can make as few changes as possible, and make the changes I have to make from smallest to largest.</p><p><br /></p><p>About those carpet fibers, get yourself a hand held air blower and give the coin, and the glass a blast before shooting.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1181054[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4893616, member: 112673"]Most ancient coins don't lay flat. That's the nature of the way they were made I suppose. Photographically, that's not a problem, just another step added to the process. If the coin has a deeper focus area than you can capture in a single image, which some ancient coins do, you need to focus stack. Take a couple of pictures with the focus at different depths, for example, focus toward the front, then toward the back. The depth of field will overlap and you combine them in your editing software. I shoot at f14 which gives me a depth of field that covers 90% of the coins I shoot. What aperture are you shooting at? Try increasing it. This image is a single exposure at f14. Remember not to focus at the highest point of the coin; you’re wasting focus depth. There is available focus area in front of the point you are focusing on, so as a general rule, focus about 1/3 of the way into the area you want in sharp focus. In the image below, a 2,100 year old Alexander the Great silver tetradrachm, I focused on his eye, not his cheek or hair. [ATTACH=full]1181043[/ATTACH] About moving the camera, I do that for almost every coin shot (which is another reason for a copy stand, because repositioning the camera with a tripod is a pain.) I try to get as many pixels on the product as possible, so I adjust the camera position to fill about 90% the frame with the coin; I don't want to be too close to the edge. Generally, coins less than 3/4" round are smaller than full frame at my 12" minimum focus distance, but otherwise, I fill the frame. Of course, when I'm shooting dozens of coins at once I group them by coin size so I can make as few changes as possible, and make the changes I have to make from smallest to largest. About those carpet fibers, get yourself a hand held air blower and give the coin, and the glass a blast before shooting. [ATTACH=full]1181054[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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