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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 4879130, member: 19463"]I am not a fan of axial photography because I find it less 'natural' looking than light with a bit of direction. Most of my images have a mix of directional light from a north facing window and fill from a ringlight. I use a 100mm macro on my full frame camera but wish I had paid the extra for the 180mm macro which would give more working space. Valentinian is right that good camera photos are too big, that is assuming all you want to do with them is sell coins or share on Coin Talk. Bigger is better if you are making poster size prints.</p><p><br /></p><p>I shoot RAW and use Canon cameras which come FREE with RAW conversion software. The latest version of Canon RAW files, .CR3, are not supported by some older software packages but the free Canon software does a great job. I have just started playing with the Canon built in Focus Bracketing software (included in the FREE Digital Photography Professional package) which is easier to use than doing it manually using CombineZ freeware. I am not yet skilled enough with it to appreciate all the settings available but have been happy with the defaults so far. I insist on having the camera mounted solidly and firmly believe that my home made wooden camera stand is better than any commercial tripod. I do not use flash because I like to see what I will get more exactly than modelling lights approximate. High shutter speeds are not necessary if the camera is mounted securely and you are using a mirrorless camera (mine is a Canon RP but there are many others including some 'better'). </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1178450[/ATTACH] </p><p>The differences in all these points will mean nothing to those who only use photos to sell coins. It is true that high resolution images will show details you will not see with the naked eye. If you are selling coins, you may prefer that buyers do not know about the scratches you can not see at arm's length. Most of my coins are junkers compared to what is currently fashionable. They have plenty of 'beauty marks'. If is stupid to use a $1000 camera to shoot a $100 coin? I do have a lot of trouble with dust spots on the coins that show along with the natural imperfections. (Click to enlarge)</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1178447[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>Finally, Never shoot coins handheld even if it is not the coin that is being held. This shot was taken with the camera on a tripod and the coin in hand. Bad idea!<img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie2" alt=";)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1178448[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 4879130, member: 19463"]I am not a fan of axial photography because I find it less 'natural' looking than light with a bit of direction. Most of my images have a mix of directional light from a north facing window and fill from a ringlight. I use a 100mm macro on my full frame camera but wish I had paid the extra for the 180mm macro which would give more working space. Valentinian is right that good camera photos are too big, that is assuming all you want to do with them is sell coins or share on Coin Talk. Bigger is better if you are making poster size prints. I shoot RAW and use Canon cameras which come FREE with RAW conversion software. The latest version of Canon RAW files, .CR3, are not supported by some older software packages but the free Canon software does a great job. I have just started playing with the Canon built in Focus Bracketing software (included in the FREE Digital Photography Professional package) which is easier to use than doing it manually using CombineZ freeware. I am not yet skilled enough with it to appreciate all the settings available but have been happy with the defaults so far. I insist on having the camera mounted solidly and firmly believe that my home made wooden camera stand is better than any commercial tripod. I do not use flash because I like to see what I will get more exactly than modelling lights approximate. High shutter speeds are not necessary if the camera is mounted securely and you are using a mirrorless camera (mine is a Canon RP but there are many others including some 'better'). [ATTACH=full]1178450[/ATTACH] The differences in all these points will mean nothing to those who only use photos to sell coins. It is true that high resolution images will show details you will not see with the naked eye. If you are selling coins, you may prefer that buyers do not know about the scratches you can not see at arm's length. Most of my coins are junkers compared to what is currently fashionable. They have plenty of 'beauty marks'. If is stupid to use a $1000 camera to shoot a $100 coin? I do have a lot of trouble with dust spots on the coins that show along with the natural imperfections. (Click to enlarge) [ATTACH=full]1178447[/ATTACH] Finally, Never shoot coins handheld even if it is not the coin that is being held. This shot was taken with the camera on a tripod and the coin in hand. Bad idea!;) [ATTACH=full]1178448[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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