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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;dougsmit, post: 1302306, member: 19463&quot;]The quality boost you get from a better camera will show in the photos everything else being equal when you make 20x30&quot; prints.&nbsp; What ruins most photos is a failure to find good light (don&#039;t just flop the thing down and shoot) and camera motion/vibration.&nbsp; This can be solved with expensive copy stands or a few scraps of wood screwed together like this:</p><p><a href="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/coinphoto2011ez.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/coinphoto2011ez.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/coinphoto2011ez.html</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Wood dampens vibration better than metal and a couple dollars worth of lumber can be every bit as rigid as a pro stand costing hundreds.&nbsp; Most of our coins are within a small range of sizes so it is a matter of building to fit our camera and needs.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>The 70-200 is not too long but it does not focus close enough to do coins well.&nbsp; You will need to add an extension tube.&nbsp; Before I bought my 100mm macro, I used the cheaper 70-200 f/4 with good results.&nbsp; The image quality between the kit lens 18-55, the &#039;L&#039; zoom 70-200 and the dedicated macro 100 will not be seen on photos used online in much reduced size but there is a difference in large prints that few people ever make.&nbsp; However, a properly supported, properly focused, properly lighted point and shoot will outperform an abused $6000 camera any day.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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