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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;semibovinian, post: 3037008, member: 76467&quot;]Back in the days of film, I used to do coin photography with a Nikon camera.&nbsp; Of course, film coin photograhphy was a pain in the neck because of manual focusing difficulties at around f/8 with a blacked-out split-image focusing prism (and also no immediate feedback, no auto white balance, etc.)</p><p><br /></p><p>Around 1998, I stopped using film, and started scanning in coins -- the average scan at that time was better than all but the best film photos.&nbsp; (My modern scanner is terrible for coins, though).</p><p><br /></p><p>Around 2004 I got a Canon 10D and tried a few coin test shots, but focusing was even worse, with the crummy viewfinder screens (no split-image prism at all).&nbsp; You did get immediate feedback, though, which helped.&nbsp; And, no more film.&nbsp; I continued scanning coins before they went to SDB.</p><p><br /></p><p>Everything changed when I got a Canon T2i with tethering and magnified live view on the computer monitor.&nbsp; The resulting photos were so much better than the scans, and there was no longer any problem focusing.&nbsp; Also, by that time focus stacking software was commonplace, for closeup shots.&nbsp;&nbsp; I stopped scanning coins, and eventually had to reshoot everything.</p><p><br /></p><p>BTW, I used to do astrophotography with an H-alpha modified 30D, but thankfully I missed out on astro with film. </p><p><br /></p><p>TL;DR -- use a DSLR with tethering and liveview for focusing.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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