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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 3031589, member: 19463"]I agree and add that you can shoot as close as you can focus even though the coin nowhere near fills the frame. Then you crop to just the coin and still should have a better image than you would get with the USB toy. This image of a fake coin shows the closest I could get without accessories and a full size crop of the image. To make a image suitable for most uses, just join the two sides in one reduced size image as shown here.</p><p><img src="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0bbnewrack2comb.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I do not recommend the cheap diopters for close ups because they have no correction for color fringing and will probably be worse than cropping. There are two element diopter lenses that are better but cost a lot more. I do recommend 'automatic' extension tubes. Many brands are sold on eBay and even the $15 ones will work with your Canon. Be sure you get the ones with 'auto' feature that have little brass pins inside that connect the lens contacts to those on the camera. The most important this is to have a solid support. It can be an expensive commercial stand or something you cobble together from scrap lumber. Cheap wood vibrates less than toy tripods. The stand does not have to be adjustable. It is easier to move the coin closer to the lens than to move the camera closer to the coin. For smaller coins, I place a book or two under the coin prop. Shown here is a spindle from a CDR pack. My pages on the matter show other options and way more other opinions than you want to see.</p><p><a href="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/coinphoto2011ez1.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/coinphoto2011ez1.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/coinphoto2011ez1.html</a></p><p><img src="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0bbnewrack00.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 3031589, member: 19463"]I agree and add that you can shoot as close as you can focus even though the coin nowhere near fills the frame. Then you crop to just the coin and still should have a better image than you would get with the USB toy. This image of a fake coin shows the closest I could get without accessories and a full size crop of the image. To make a image suitable for most uses, just join the two sides in one reduced size image as shown here. [IMG]http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0bbnewrack2comb.jpg[/IMG] I do not recommend the cheap diopters for close ups because they have no correction for color fringing and will probably be worse than cropping. There are two element diopter lenses that are better but cost a lot more. I do recommend 'automatic' extension tubes. Many brands are sold on eBay and even the $15 ones will work with your Canon. Be sure you get the ones with 'auto' feature that have little brass pins inside that connect the lens contacts to those on the camera. The most important this is to have a solid support. It can be an expensive commercial stand or something you cobble together from scrap lumber. Cheap wood vibrates less than toy tripods. The stand does not have to be adjustable. It is easier to move the coin closer to the lens than to move the camera closer to the coin. For smaller coins, I place a book or two under the coin prop. Shown here is a spindle from a CDR pack. My pages on the matter show other options and way more other opinions than you want to see. [url]http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/coinphoto2011ez1.html[/url] [IMG]http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0bbnewrack00.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
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