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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Tamaracian, post: 8085497, member: 23122&quot;]Many &quot;coin doctors&quot; typically use a sulfurous solution applied either by dipping or brush/swap, or exposure to a substance that contains sulfur which when heated drives off hydrogen sulfide or sulfur dioxide gas in an closed container--with or without supplementary heating--to effect the AT color change; others have used &quot;clorox&quot; or other over-the-counter solutions.&nbsp; Unless expertly controlled, ALL of these treatments affect the entire coins surface even if colors are variegated.&nbsp; Also, contact with cardboard or paper (which is typically manufactured using a Bisulfite for the Pulping operation) over time--and accelerated by storage in warm, moisture-laden locations--results in &quot;natural&quot; toning.</p><p><br /></p><p>What I see in the examples posted by [USER=37839]@Morgandude11[/USER] are coins that have been heated while still in the (presumably sonic-sealed) Plastic Holder, as s<i>ome</i> of the coins&#039; surfaces have not shown any significant color change or toning.&nbsp; <i>How can heating be accomplished without affecting the plastic--by placing the Holder on an Induction Range Coil and adjusting the &quot;power&quot; so that the heating is low to moderate over some period of time.</i>&nbsp; The Induction Coil only heats the metal coin and not the non-metallic parts of the Holder.&nbsp; The &quot;controlled&quot; heating will cause the sulfur residue(s) in the cardboard to outgas, and either result in crescent-shaped toning beginning at the Rim with the progression of colors in the spectrum to be more pronounced there, and/or affect the surface with a mottled or patchy toning, with differences among coins due to their composition, size, position in the Holder, and processing through the various stages of Mint production.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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