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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;ranchhand, post: 154883, member: 2622&quot;]yea speedy, its tough when you set a &quot;bar&quot; for each coin, i have let a lot of franklins that looked great go because of a contact mark in the field, or weak strike. Congrats on almost finishing the proof set!</p><p><br /></p><p>their is something about the frankilns that make them look so good when they are brilliant and clean (with a touch of toning) they almost look like satin...</p><p><br /></p><p>sabatca: yes, speedy is right, key dates are considered the &quot;rare&quot; coins in a date/mint mark run of a type of coin. The best way to see what the key dates for a coin series are is to take a look at the redbook, all of the coins that are way more expensive then the others are the keys. take a look at the mercury dime series, the 1916-D is far and away one of the most sought after and rare coins in that set. I am sure that a lot of sets of mercs hare out there that are missing that one coin...</p><p><br /></p><p>one method of collecting is to try and get the key dates for a set first. If you where to save up and get a 1916-D dime, the rest of the set would be a snap to complete <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie2" alt=";)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>I can also tell you form experience that the key dates seem to keep climbing in price, while the more common dates seem to stay relatively low. Also if you are trying to have a set of coins that are matched in grade it is best ot get a key date coin in a grade you can afford, then collect the rest of the set to match that key. Nothing stands out more in a collection of BU/AU or XF coins than a G or VG key date... some are not really that picky though.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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