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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;semibovinian, post: 2734281, member: 76467&quot;]There a few ways to get this:</p><p><br /></p><p>1) Universal stage (for microscopes) -- usually very expensive, but they do come up from time-to-time on eBay.</p><p><br /></p><p>2) Goniometer, perhaps 2 one on top of the other to get two-axis tilting.&nbsp; Some macro photographers use these, especially for things like insects, etc.</p><p><br /></p><p>3) Tilt-shift bellows -- this is like tilting the neck (sort-of).</p><p><br /></p><p>In my case, I can slightly tilt the whole stage by using thin shims under the mounting bolts, etc.&nbsp; I used this only to get the stage as close to square with the bellows as possible, then don&#039;t change anything.&nbsp; Normally, you&#039;d want the coin exactly level with the camera and lens, so that you get he whole coin in focus.</p><p><br /></p><p>There is a pseudo-axial technique with a tilt-shift bellows or adapter where you can either shift the lens and coin and bounce light off the coin back up through the lens, or tilt the lens (or even the camera with an upside-down bellows)&nbsp; and coin to bounce the light off the coin.&nbsp; I&#039;ve tried the shift method, but never attempted the tilt method -- scared off by having to match up all the Scheimpflug angles.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; I&#039;ve moved on to a true diffuse axial technique for shiny problem coins.&nbsp; This uses a 45-degree 50% silvered glass/mirror and all that.&nbsp; It&#039;s easier to get extremely uniform illumination across the whole coin, which is needed when shooting through slabs.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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