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<p>[QUOTE="Insider, post: 2720312, member: 24314"]kanga, asked: If you have one or have experience with one, particularly if you have used it with coins, I'll highly value your comments.</p><p><br /></p><p>I've had a little experience looking at coins with several types and brands of stereo microscopes ranging from $59 brand X to over $3000 Nikon. My opinions based on that little amount of experience:</p><p><br /></p><p><b>Magnification</b>: I thinking in the 20x-60x range. <b><span style="color: rgb(179, 0, 179)">No, no, no! <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0)">NO! </span></span></b></p><p><br /></p><p>"The lower end could be..." <span style="color: rgb(179, 0, 179)"><b>IS </b>the most useful. It depends what you are doing (authentication, variety detection, grading, interesting mint made characteristics vs PMD) as most coins are viewed with the lowest power available. Believe it or not, the lighting you use is almost more important than the magnification. Different types of light are necessary for different tasks. Example: Halogen light pipe used at 60+ X to detect a seam on an extremely well done added mint mark.</span> "...useful but I'm not sure that above 60x would be useful. <span style="color: rgb(179, 0, 179)">You are correct, 30X to 40X is plenty 99% of the time. Just looked. Mine is set at 7X at the moment (its lowest setting).</span></p><p><br /></p><p><b>Lighting</b>: What should I look for? Brightness. Color. Etc.</p><p>IMO backlighting (from the stage) would be worse than useless; it would be downright annoying. <span style="color: rgb(179, 0, 179)">I have not found any light source attached to the scope to be ideal.</span> <span style="color: rgb(179, 0, 179)">You'll need a florescent light for authentication and grading plus a 75 to 100 watt adjustable lamp for grading. I'll try to take a photo of my setup. </span></p><p><br /></p><p><b>Imaging</b>: <b>IF </b>I go for some sort of imaging system what type?</p><p>What capability (megapixels)? <span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0)"><b>I'm ignorant on this subject! </b><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0)">I have a Cannon digital camera on the third tube. </span></span></p><p><br /></p><p><b>Other</b>: What have I overlooked?</p><p>I remember one that allowed you to rotate the stage with a knob. That seems useful for view adjustments without actually touching the object.</p><p><br /></p><p><span style="color: rgb(179, 0, 179)">Get used to holding the coin by the edge, between your fingers. You can control the viewing angle easily. That is as important as the lighting! If the coin is in the wrong orientation you will still not see a scratch or hairlines at 30X!</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(179, 0, 179)"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(179, 0, 179)">PS IMO, at this time, those digital scopes we see all over are basically <b><i><span style="color: #ff0000">toys</span></i></b>! </span>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Insider, post: 2720312, member: 24314"]kanga, asked: If you have one or have experience with one, particularly if you have used it with coins, I'll highly value your comments. I've had a little experience looking at coins with several types and brands of stereo microscopes ranging from $59 brand X to over $3000 Nikon. My opinions based on that little amount of experience: [B]Magnification[/B]: I thinking in the 20x-60x range. [B][COLOR=rgb(179, 0, 179)]No, no, no! [COLOR=rgb(255, 0, 0)]NO! [/COLOR][/COLOR][/B] "The lower end could be..." [COLOR=rgb(179, 0, 179)][B]IS [/B]the most useful. It depends what you are doing (authentication, variety detection, grading, interesting mint made characteristics vs PMD) as most coins are viewed with the lowest power available. Believe it or not, the lighting you use is almost more important than the magnification. Different types of light are necessary for different tasks. Example: Halogen light pipe used at 60+ X to detect a seam on an extremely well done added mint mark.[/COLOR] "...useful but I'm not sure that above 60x would be useful. [COLOR=rgb(179, 0, 179)]You are correct, 30X to 40X is plenty 99% of the time. Just looked. Mine is set at 7X at the moment (its lowest setting).[/COLOR] [B]Lighting[/B]: What should I look for? Brightness. Color. Etc. IMO backlighting (from the stage) would be worse than useless; it would be downright annoying. [COLOR=rgb(179, 0, 179)]I have not found any light source attached to the scope to be ideal.[/COLOR] [COLOR=rgb(179, 0, 179)]You'll need a florescent light for authentication and grading plus a 75 to 100 watt adjustable lamp for grading. I'll try to take a photo of my setup. [/COLOR] [B]Imaging[/B]: [B]IF [/B]I go for some sort of imaging system what type? What capability (megapixels)? [COLOR=rgb(255, 0, 0)][B]I'm ignorant on this subject! [/B][COLOR=rgb(0, 0, 0)]I have a Cannon digital camera on the third tube. [/COLOR][/COLOR] [B]Other[/B]: What have I overlooked? I remember one that allowed you to rotate the stage with a knob. That seems useful for view adjustments without actually touching the object. [COLOR=rgb(179, 0, 179)]Get used to holding the coin by the edge, between your fingers. You can control the viewing angle easily. That is as important as the lighting! If the coin is in the wrong orientation you will still not see a scratch or hairlines at 30X! PS IMO, at this time, those digital scopes we see all over are basically [B][I][COLOR=#ff0000]toys[/COLOR][/I][/B]! [/COLOR][/QUOTE]
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