I looked at Ike's for 2 1/2 hours yesterday. Could have done it longer but had a function to attend to. Ended up getting 6 business strikes and 3 Blue and 1 Brown. I got a chance to look at about 200 coins. I will post a few but I feel like I wanted them look at raw more and be able to assign grades. I didn't get a chance to see anything stabbed or even graded. I will go back to the dealer's shop in two weeks too look at all the Brown Ike's he has and more Blue. He said he had a ton of them but didn't have at shop. Anyways, I am more focused on getting the business strikes right now. Does PCGS Photograde help?
I find Photograde very helpful for circulated coins, but less helpful for mint state. The differences in the higher grades can be subtle and difficult to capture for some varieties.
I would go to all the shows and shops possible and look at PCGS and NGC slabs. Looking at images will help but having the coin in hand will help even more.
OK, I am cataloging my new finds and I am wondering if this 72 Philly is a Type 3. @MontCollector @cladking @mikenoodle @Ike Skywalker. The lighting I have for these shots is bad, let me know if it makes it too hard to tell.
That's what I am thinking. I only paid $1.00 for it but got it because I wanted a type three example. I did get some nice other specimens in other years and mints but this has my attention right now.
On overload after researching all the DIVa variations. I guess for now I will hunt off Eye appeal and a couple of the easy Types while hunting.
I know the feeling. Like was stated before. Keep an eye out for the Peg Leg varieties. These are popular and some collectors will gobble them up. The "Talon Heads" are pretty easy to spot as well. Both variety descriptions can be found on The Ike Group website. There are new DDO's and DDR's still being found on these as well as other errors. The DIVA list is growing. So please if you find an Ike with something interesting going on with it post pics of what you are seeing. Would love to see it. Good luck on the hunt...Mont
I am going through what I bought yesterday right now. I think I snagged an MS65 71D. I don't have good light right now because a guest is using my study. I'll post pictures up tomorrow. Also, what do you put all of your Ikes in? I have plastic flips but I am not sure how to store them when I have a stack of Ikes that are not quite airtite worthy.
I would suggest getting a binder and some 2x2 sleeves. These are great for all 2x2s and can be found at most LCS.
Well, my heart is broken. The 71S I have has an MS65 Obverse but the Reverse has a smudge on it. My only hope is some acetone. I can get to it Thursday night. Thank God it was only a $3 coin.
This is the learning curve, Bman, and the cost of the coin is low, so as I have said, it's a great series to learn from because it's cost-efficient
Hey Bman, see you over in CRH all the time. Sorry I'm late to this party. I like the Ike too. My 2c worth of experience. Strictly amateur! About a year ago I arranged for $16,000 in bags of Ike's at my bank (3 orders each 2 weeks apart). Definitely appealed to the CRH'er in me. 4 of them were plastic and recently put together. The rest were canvas sewn bags but not mint bags, they were counted Fed Res bags. From these I put together 4 clad sets, with most about grade 63-64. (well, based on my meager grading ability anyway.) Not one 72 type 2 in all that, complete clad sets except for that one. Also kept the next best 20 coins for each date. A couple of dates there were a LOT of 62 grade so I kept a couple of extra rolls of these. In addition to the clad I found 2 modern Am Eagles, 3 Morgans, 7 40% and 14 coins that were "copies" or tokens. Also found 4 counterfeit 40% "silver" or as I call them "In God we rust" fakes. Guess I had hoped for more silver in all that but, still there was something. And pulled some decent quality clad. Since that big search the bank got me one more bag, this time it had $872 in Ikes. the rest of the bag was JFK halves mixed in. (they do these bags by weight so the face total was only a couple of dollars off.) That bag produced exactly nothing. One thing all that searching did for me though, was I developed a sense of what grade is out there, how to grade them, and what to look for. Note: my bank was more willing to order $6,000 at a time than $1,000 and only if I had the $6k on deposit with them at the time of order. As always, as I'm sure you know, they never want to see them again, so don't deposit the unwanted ones back at the same bank.
Guys, I am at a shop, good deals on Ike's. What is the difference between 1776-1976 Red Uncs and White and Red Uncs?
Ok, I didn't buy anything because I got confused @Ike Skywalker @cladking @MontCollector @mikenoodle @softmentor. What are all the differences between the Bicentennial Sets below as far as Ike's go? Are there 2 1776-1976 types also?
The proof set is the three pc 40% set. There's only one. The red pack is the 40% 3 pc set of mint set quality. Don't quote me on this but the white and red pack is the only packaging for the high speed press 40% Ikes (Kennedys and Washingtons). But, I think some contain the mint set quality ones as well. To tell these apart the mint set quality coins always have a white stripe on the plastic sleeve and the high speed press coins never have it on the sleeve. Once you see a specimen of each you'll be able to tell them apart easily. There is, IMS, also a red pack that more orangish and doesn't have the thick cardboard holder with high speed coins. I don't remember packaging that well.