Starting an Ike Collection

Hint: If you buy a proof Ike in the brown box and it has haze on the coin, the dealer/person will sell it cheap. The haze comes off with a short soak in acetone. I needed a proof '71, bought one in the government holder with haze and acetone worked great.

 

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Are Eisenhower dollars bigger then silver dollars. Cheech

 

Are eisenhower dollars bigger then silver dollars

 

Are eisenhower dollars bigger the silver dollars

 

The Ike set was one of my first set I put together, I had fun doing it, Nobody mentioned Type one and type two's for the 1776-1976 by centenials. Type 1 comes out of the 1975 mint and proof sets and type 2 out of the 1976 sets. I put them in a Dansco album and the three last holes I put a 1990 Ike commerative Ms and proof and the blue mint medal that comes with the ms blue pack, makes it look cool and complete istead of 3 empty holes. Buying the mint and proof sets were cheaper than buying the coins individually. and used the other coins for my other sets. Have fun putting it together!

 

They are the exact same size, but made from Copper-Nickel clad

 

Guys, what about learning to grade the Copper-Nickel Clad? I just started learning how to grade Morgans.

 

CuNi Clad is far harder than silver, it is also not as reflective. Both of these factors will come into play when grading Ikes.

You will see more planchet flaws on Ikes because they're harder, and therefore they don't strike out as well as on a silver coin. determining contact marks from planchet flaws is a steep learning curve.

I tend to look at them like nickels as far as marks, I expect to find some on almost every coin.

 

No. Ejection Doubling.

 

Ok, I got a 1971 Blue Ike Today for $10. I am going to give it an acetone bath. The dealer said I should do it due to the PVC package it came in. I am going to give my 1971 Brown Ike a bath also to see if the Blue haze comes off. I'll do some before and after pictures.

 

Ok, I can't even get the Brown Ike out. Anyone know how without messing up the coin?

 

Figured it out

 

Here's the before picture. Just put it in acetone and no luck getting the blue hays out so I won't post an after. c

 

The availability of nice choice BU Ikes is plummeting.

It's not that they are scarce but at these low prices the demand is beginning to outstrip the available supply. Most of the BU rolls have already been busted up and the few surviving mint sets usually have bad and or tarnished Ikes. This really started back last November or so but so far it's not apparent because buyers aren't panicking. I seriously doubt that nominal price increases will change this balance because this time it's fundamental; there are no more casual sellers.

I expect significant price increases in the next year and this should propel the demand for Ikes. Let's face it; buyers who are now paying $3 to $8 each for these aren't going to balk at having to pay $5 to $20. It will remain an inexpensive collection. Demand for proofs and silvers will ratchet up a little because success feeds success. These are in better supply and will come on the market with nominal price increases.

 

So I gave my Blue Ike an acetone bath for a few hours. Now it has white spots on the cheek and neck. Worse than before. I put the Blue Ike in acetone because the dealer I bought it from told me to do it because of PVC plastic it came in. Anyone know what's going on?

 

I think I know what's happening but I don't have a lot of experience here so you'll want to wait for more suggestions. A long soak in 91% isopropyl alcohol will probably remove the white haze.

 

The brown Ike could be better for a quick dip in E-Z-est. It looks like it's got nice detail and surfaces and the dip will improve the black/White contrast of the proof.

FWIW, these coins are perfect for experimenting on since they don't cost much to begin with.

 

Exactly, spent a total of $18 for both the Brown and Blue Ike. I will experiment away!

 

As always, I appreciate your insight on the market, cladking.

 

A very steep curve, I would imagine. Is it the case that planchet flaws are inherently "softer" than contact marks? It seems that the edges of planchet flaws should not be as sharp or jagged.