Starting an Ike Collection

I wasn't aware of the falling rock. Took a look at the ones I have and there it was, cool. Thanks @19Lyds .

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

OK, I am at a standstill building my collection. I am gearing it to a 35 coin set and I need 12 more coins. I am not too happy with the condition of my coins as some are probably AU and others in low MS. I initially thought it would be fun to keep upgrading my coins and give the lower tiers to my niece and nephew for their Ike collections. I'm over that as it just seems like a hassle. I can give them a start with what I have already which I will do. I am now willing to buy some graded ones rather than just finding them in the wild. These are the coins I need and any advice on getting them would help:

71
71D FEV
72 Type II
73S Brown
74S Regular Proof
74S Brown
76S Regular Proof Type I
76S Regular Proof Type II
77
77S Proof
78
78S Proof

 

The '77 and '78 come really nice in the mint set. Just look at about 25 each of the two sets and you'll have two nice gemmy coins.

 

None of what you've posted are all that difficult to obtain and ALL are or would be available at literally any coin show/coin store. You may not like the prices but they are there.

The 72 Type 2 might be challenging but, if you're ever in Florida, I hear that there are plenty to still be found. I found one in a complete Dansco collection that was being offered at a Coin Store. I've also been able to purchase a few in bulk lots from "non-Coin Dealers" on ebay. (Antique Dealers)
The FEV? Check every slabbed 71-D you come in contact with. You CAN get very lucky. Don't rule out NGC slabs or for that matter, any other slabs. If push comes to shove, PM me your address. I can hook you up for cheap as I think I've got some nice one's laying around here somewhere.
The 1971? MS65 is easily obtainable but if you buy rolls, some 64's could very well pop out. I bought a roll about 10 years back and it coughed up at least 5 MS65's and a couple MS65+ coins.
The 73-s and 74-S Silver Proofs are easy peasey. Just be prepared to part with some money. $15 or the 74 and maybe $25 or so for the 73-S.
The 76, 77, and 78 proofs are just a matter of buying the proof sets which are really cheap.

As for your "upgrade plans"? Don't give up. Pick up a couple of extra IKE Folders and some 2x2's with 2.5 x 2.5 Mylar flips.

An Eisenhower collection is much much more than just 32-35 coins in some Dansco on a Book Shelf.

An Eisenhower Collection is a LOT of different coins. A lot of Duplicates. A lot of Folkers. A LOT of Slabs, a couple of boxes of 2x2's and a LOT of Rolls acquired over the years.

Experience the collection.

 

This. You basically just described my Ike collection. I even have a monster box, which will need to be revisited at some point. I now have more knowledge and experience with errors and varieties. Who knows what lurks in that population of 500.

 

Cherry picked a 1971D FEV! Got a nice 77S too. 10 more to go for my first Ike set.

 

Used this post to Identify my FEV!

 

What's the best way to break out a brown Ike? I have only done it once before and had a really hard time getting the coin out of the black plastic holder. @19Lyds @Ike Skywalker @mikenoodle @cladking

 

someone once posted a video on the best way to do it. The case will be unusable afterwards, but the coin will be undamaged.

try searching threads here for opening proof sets or opening Brown Ikes.

 

I don't specifically remember any dates but I use an awl just like on the proof sets.

Wear safety glasses though.

 

Hold the slab firmly with both hands on the ends.
Firmly Twist it back and forth until you hear cracking.
Take a small flat blade screw driver OR an Xacto Blade and work it into one of the slab corners again, using a casual twisting motion to avoid either breaking off the corner of the slab or damaging the Xacto Blade.
Once you see the seams starting to part, use larger twists and work you way around the edge. Given enough separation, the slab should come off rather easily BUT the Twisting Motion in the first step is your best indicator of how well the slab is sealed.

When using a screw driver, be VERY Careful to not allow the driver to slip into the slab and damaging the coin.

Once the slab is separated, the coin will need to be removed from the black insert.
These inserts are designed so that a machine can drop the coin into the hole Obverse side up. What this means is that the side of the hole in the plastic are angled. (Larger Hole on Top than what's on the bottom.)
This means that the coin will come out of the hole if you push from the referse side.
I usually use a soft cotton handkerchief or Cotton Gloves and place my thumb on the Cameo Portion of the Moon while pushing.
The coin will "flip" in the hole at which point it is easy to simply push it out from the reeded edge.

It is NOT really that difficult but if folks are too aggressive, they can and will damage the coin.

PS: Work over a soft surface such as a soft terry towel to avoid dinging the edge of the coin when it drops out of the hole.

 

Ugh. I used latex gloves instead of cotton to get the coin out. It was a 73 Brown and a nice toner. The latex didn't work that well as I believe I was sweating. It looks like a fingerprint where I pushed out the coin. Oh well, this one will be dipped for a split second in eZest. I did that with my 1971 Brown and it looks great. I will have to wait until I get some cotton gloves before I break anymore out.

 

I tried to make a little video of how I remove these from the OGP. I really suck and the video is grainy and blurry and I broke some rules kinda but the gist of I have been saying is clearly shown.

I use and Xacto Blade to pry under one of the corners and then a small flat blade screw driver to pry around the perimeter of the slab. It's really quite easy.



Also, I have never done a video before much less used the Media Button to post one but here goes anyway.

 

That's how I open mine, except that I only use the screwdriver. Good video.

 

Awesome Lyds thank you.

 

@19Lyds @MontCollector @Ike Skywalker @cladking @mikenoodle

I got this last week. Unfortunately I ruined the toning by busting it out of the Brown Ike case with latex gloves. Anyways, I can get more of them like this, as the guy I got them from had around 7 of them left. MAny of them have a very similar toning pattern. Is this type of toning sought after? Should I keep getting them?

 

I'm not sure to be honest, Bman.

Do you remember a while ago when I suggested that you look at a TON of these in slabs to get an idea of what graded examples look like?

This coin is why. Can you find coins toned like this in high grade TPG slabs? If not, then I guess that tells you about the market and therein lies your answer.

Some people like target toned coins, but I can't say that I have seen a ton of toned Ike's in slabs. In fact, most that I remember were so bright white that I think that the market prefers them cleaned.

 

@mikenoodle

gotcha, I'm going to clean that coin after messing it up with the latex. I have looked at a few slabbed Ikes now and have not seen any toned Brown Ikes. I have to crack out my 72, and 74 Browns still. Guess I will be dipping them with my 73.

 

Honestly I think that the market would accept the toning, but it hates the haziness more and therefore settles for the "cleaned" look.

 

I agree with the noodle on this one. I do like the blue toning, but tend to steer clear of the cloudy looking ones.