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<p>[QUOTE="gbroke, post: 1577743, member: 22585"]Best strike = full step? Not exactly accurate lonegun. Fullsteps are a product of the die wear. Some years in the jefferson series are extremely rare or non existent in fullstep due to heavily worn dies. Doesn't mean there aren't strong strikes. Also, you can have seriously hammered strikes that will not meet the FS designation. Any nick or chip across the stairs will void FS.</p><p><br /></p><p>OP...</p><p>I think you need to decide what your end game is first.</p><p>Meaning, are you going for a competitive registry set? Does eye appeal, toning/color play into at all?</p><p>Are you willing to buy raw nickels?</p><p><br /></p><p>These are some things that would determine how you go about collecting them.</p><p>The war nickel series overall is a very well-struck series and plentiful. In general, war nickels with FS in 65 and under do not carry much of a premium over non FS. With a couple exceptions. </p><p>A graded MS66 set can get pretty pricey. So I suppose it's how much do you want to spend?</p><p>It is very easy to find raw gem sets in the old plastic Capital holders or similar for a very reasonable price.</p><p><br /></p><p>I have somewhat of a passion for Jeffersons, especially toners. However, I am a raw collector. Some members here (Lehigh) and others are die hard Jefferson collectors and take the graded/registry route. </p><p><br /></p><p>Good luck with your new nickel collecting!</p><p><br /></p><p>Here are a few threads for reference:</p><p>These first two show off some beautiful sets in the Capital holders.</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.cointalk.com/t212158/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.com/t212158/">http://www.cointalk.com/t212158/</a></p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.cointalk.com/t216002/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.com/t216002/">http://www.cointalk.com/t216002/</a></p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.cointalk.com/t202696/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.com/t202696/">http://www.cointalk.com/t202696/</a></p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.cointalk.com/t205951/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.com/t205951/">http://www.cointalk.com/t205951/</a></p><p> </p><p>-greg[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="gbroke, post: 1577743, member: 22585"]Best strike = full step? Not exactly accurate lonegun. Fullsteps are a product of the die wear. Some years in the jefferson series are extremely rare or non existent in fullstep due to heavily worn dies. Doesn't mean there aren't strong strikes. Also, you can have seriously hammered strikes that will not meet the FS designation. Any nick or chip across the stairs will void FS. OP... I think you need to decide what your end game is first. Meaning, are you going for a competitive registry set? Does eye appeal, toning/color play into at all? Are you willing to buy raw nickels? These are some things that would determine how you go about collecting them. The war nickel series overall is a very well-struck series and plentiful. In general, war nickels with FS in 65 and under do not carry much of a premium over non FS. With a couple exceptions. A graded MS66 set can get pretty pricey. So I suppose it's how much do you want to spend? It is very easy to find raw gem sets in the old plastic Capital holders or similar for a very reasonable price. I have somewhat of a passion for Jeffersons, especially toners. However, I am a raw collector. Some members here (Lehigh) and others are die hard Jefferson collectors and take the graded/registry route. Good luck with your new nickel collecting! Here are a few threads for reference: These first two show off some beautiful sets in the Capital holders. [URL]http://www.cointalk.com/t212158/[/URL] [URL]http://www.cointalk.com/t216002/[/URL] [URL]http://www.cointalk.com/t202696/[/URL] [URL]http://www.cointalk.com/t205951/[/URL] -greg[/QUOTE]
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