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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;messydesk, post: 5041971, member: 1765&quot;]David Lange did a series of articles in The Numismatist probably at least 20 years ago on assembling the ultimate 20th century type set.&nbsp; I&#039;ll have to see if I can find it sometime, but one of the things emphasized was picking dates and mints that tended to look really good in terms of luster, strike, and details.&nbsp; (Yes, strike and details are different things.)</p><p><br /></p><p>For the SLQ, you need three coins.&nbsp; The best Type 1 to get is easily the 1917.&nbsp; These are probably the sharpest for the entire series, as they are fully struck and the hubs aren&#039;t worn.&nbsp; The Type 2 redesign screwed up the relief just enough to result in poor detail at the head.&nbsp; 1917, 20, 23, and 24 might be your best bets for a lustrous, well-struck coin.&nbsp; 1917 has an advantage of being a fresh hub.&nbsp; 1923 can come with great luster.&nbsp; The Type 3 that comes most often with a full strike is 1930, but it is also the last use of the hub and may have lost a little detail that is present on a 1925 or 26, also common fully struck.</p><p><br /></p><p>Be aware, of course, that the FH designation is a binary (yes/no) designation on a very continuous strike spectrum.&nbsp; There are nearly fully struck coins that don&#039;t get a huge price bump for lack of the designation, and there are barely fully struck coins that don&#039;t deserve the price bump of a hammered one.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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