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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;walterallen, post: 368715, member: 4068&quot;]I&#039;ve seen this with a lot of set like yours and a lot of Brown Ike&#039;s (40% silver proofs 71-74). The spots develop as a result a bad store practices. Humidity is a big player in this.</p><p><br /></p><p>How ever, I have had some success in cleaning spots and what I like to call hazing, looks cloudy. The process has the potential to ruin your coins if performed incorrectly. I have Brown Ikes that have been cleaned some 4 years ago and today they are still clear of any hazing and in their original displays.</p><p><br /></p><p>I have seen coins that were so bad, &quot;so poorly stored&quot;, they developed very dark spots on them, I tried to clean them and the spots had not completely disappeared after cleaning. </p><p><br /></p><p>The containers are not the problem. Just have to keep the coins stored in a climate control space. </p><p><br /></p><p>I would like to suggest this: Since there are large numbers of real nice, real clean, Bicentennial sets still in the market and at a fair price, you should breakout any coins that are worn looking or highly handled in their displays. I say break those out and if they clean up nice you can use them in custom displays for types or sets. These coins are quite beautiful and I have developed a fondness for Ikes, real &quot;nice&quot; Ikes. Costs weren&#039;t high when I was putting my sets together several years ago. I have a pristine 1976 three coin proof set never assembled in the styro tray with the cardboard sleeve. Got that one for a huge $16.00. I&#039;m short three Blue Ikes to have a complete BU Ike set, not including all the varieties. I&#039;m not a big variety collector, its to costly.</p><p><br /></p><p>Good Luck and Keep on Collecting!!!</p><p><br /></p><p>Allen[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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