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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;ChangeinHistory, post: 2362799, member: 75397&quot;]To start with, I&#039;m excited for you in doing this project.&nbsp; You have a great start. There&#039;s been very sound advice here and I&#039;m sure there&#039;s more to come.</p><p><br /></p><p>About 8-9 years ago I taught a few non-credit coin courses at a couple local community colleges.&nbsp; For what it&#039;s worth, you&#039;re welcome to this handout I had for the class. You&#039;ve touched on a majority of this already.</p><p>Basic numismatic advice (in no particular order)</p><p><br /></p><ol> <li>There is no Santa Clause in coin collecting, if it’s too good to be true, it is.</li> <li>Learn how to grade coins for yourself.&nbsp; People usually start with circulated grades and then move on to grading Mint State or Uncirculated coins.</li> <li>Average circulated really means About Good/or at best Good-4.</li> <li>Be very careful when buying a raw (uncertified), expensive high-grade Mint State coin.(MS-60 or higher)&nbsp; If it was truly the grade the seller is claiming, it would probably be certified.&nbsp; Buy certified until you really know how to grade MS coins.</li> <li><u>Dipping is to be done only when necessary.&nbsp; Consult an expert.&nbsp; <b>You can never replace originality.</b></u></li> </ol><p>Using acetone on a coin is for removing dirt or verdigris.&nbsp; It does not remove any metal from the coin. Whether or not dipping or even using acetone is considered cleaning is debatable.</p><p><br /></p><ol> <li> Experiment on cheap, toned, uncirculated coins before you dip a more valuable coin.</li> <li>Some toning is desirable and can command a premium.&nbsp; Be aware that there are artificially toned coins out there and they should only be purchased at a discount – unless you know it’s ‘AT’ and you still like it.&nbsp; Knowing the difference between naturally toned and artificially toned coins is another debatable aspect of collecting.&nbsp; Experience and lots of browsing will help. A pretty reputable collector offered up this:&nbsp; Purple and green rarely are seen together, usually the pattern of true color would have violet, magenta, light blue, gold, and green. Purple is a red flag.</li> <li>Develop a rapport/relationship with a dealer you like.&nbsp; If you agree with their grading for the most part and their pricing, they may offer you better prices in time.&nbsp; They may also help you fulfill a ‘want list’-coins you need for your collection.</li> <li>If you rely on a particular dealer for advice, and he spends time talking with you, it’s always smart to make regular/occassional purchases.&nbsp; It’s really more of a common courtesy.</li> <li>In general if you know a dealer is overgrading their coins, simply walk away.&nbsp; It is generally poor form to argue grades on the bourse floor.&nbsp; Never argue grades at an auction-simply limit your bidding.</li> <li>Home-Shopping Network, Coin Vault, and shows like that are the worst places to buy coins.&nbsp; Flea markets and E-Bay <i>can</i> be second worse.</li> <li>Realize that some characteristics are more common in some series than others.&nbsp; Most S mint Morgan dollars have great luster in Unc. Grades, many Standing Liberty Quarters do not have a ‘full head’ in Unc. Grades, most of the D and S mint Buffalo Nickels in the teens and ‘20’s have very weak strikes, etc.&nbsp; There are particulars to every series</li> <li>Grading Mint State coins- Marks, Luster, Strike, and Eye Appeal.</li> <li>Grading circulated coins- Marks/wear, Strike, and Eye Appeal.&nbsp; Luster is not really a factor for EF-40 coins or lower.</li> <li>Learn how to grade.</li> <li>Guaranteed unsearched—misused term.&nbsp; Never buy an item that uses this phrase.</li> <li>Store your coins carefully—we are just temporary caretakers of these items for the next generation.</li> <li>Grading is an art-not a science.&nbsp; There are slight differences in grading standards between PCGS, Photograde, NGC, and the ANA.</li> <li>Learn how to find certain designations on coins.&nbsp; For example, Full Bell Line for Franklin Halves, or Full Split Bands on Mercury Dimes or Roosevelt Dimes are extra designations that are usually separate from grade.&nbsp; Certain Third Party Grading companies have different criteria for these designations.&nbsp; For instance, it’s very tough to get a full bell line designation on Franklin Halves from NGC and a bit easier to get it from PCGS.&nbsp; The forums from Collectors Universe and Collectors Society and Cointalk.com are great places on the web to hear what experienced collectors think on this subject.</li> <li>Collect what you like, mainstream or obscure. </li> <li>Look at thousands of coins and learn how to grade.&nbsp; It will be fun,… honest.</li> <li>Go to coin shows in your area as often as you can.&nbsp; These are listed toward the back in Coin World or Numismatic News.</li> <li>Be careful when buying heavily toned coins that look too good to be true-they have usually been doctored or artificially toned.&nbsp; Artificial toning usually floats on the surface of a coin whereas natural toning seems to come from within the coin.&nbsp; Even advanced collectors have trouble with this one.&nbsp; Again, go to the discussion forums and you will see lots of examples and opinions.</li> <li>Network with other dealers and collectors, and join a club.</li> <li>Really learn how to grade. </li> </ol><p>Have fun[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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