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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 7441799, member: 19463"]This is all very interesting and produces some fine results. I do have one question, however. What difference do you see in achieving input images for focus stacking by moving the camera incrementally closer to the subject as opposed to changing the focus setting on the lens keeping the body position still? I always did my manual focus stacking images by moving the camera but now that I have the focus stacking routine built into my camera (the three most recent Canon mirrorless bodies offer the feature calling it 'Focus Bracketing') I am changing the focus settings. The Canon supplied software has a lot of adjustments that I have not tried being satisfied with the defaults. Because I have stopped buying coins for a while, I have shot very few coins with this feature but it does work for flowers. Perhaps your post will drive me to reshoot some older coins that will benefit from the process. I do not have a 2:1 like the Laowa but find the range of the 1:1 Canon 100mm quite sufficient by leaving extension tubes on the lens at all times. There is no need for infinity focus so there is no need to remove tubes unless shooting things larger than sestertii. </p><p><br /></p><p>One suggestion: The 360° images first appear spinning too fast for my taste but work fine when you drag the images. Do you have a control that would auto rotate at a slower or user selectable speed? I do wish there were a way to rotate without the clay but I have failed miserably finding it. I hope you will continue posting the results as you work with this technique.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 7441799, member: 19463"]This is all very interesting and produces some fine results. I do have one question, however. What difference do you see in achieving input images for focus stacking by moving the camera incrementally closer to the subject as opposed to changing the focus setting on the lens keeping the body position still? I always did my manual focus stacking images by moving the camera but now that I have the focus stacking routine built into my camera (the three most recent Canon mirrorless bodies offer the feature calling it 'Focus Bracketing') I am changing the focus settings. The Canon supplied software has a lot of adjustments that I have not tried being satisfied with the defaults. Because I have stopped buying coins for a while, I have shot very few coins with this feature but it does work for flowers. Perhaps your post will drive me to reshoot some older coins that will benefit from the process. I do not have a 2:1 like the Laowa but find the range of the 1:1 Canon 100mm quite sufficient by leaving extension tubes on the lens at all times. There is no need for infinity focus so there is no need to remove tubes unless shooting things larger than sestertii. One suggestion: The 360° images first appear spinning too fast for my taste but work fine when you drag the images. Do you have a control that would auto rotate at a slower or user selectable speed? I do wish there were a way to rotate without the clay but I have failed miserably finding it. I hope you will continue posting the results as you work with this technique.[/QUOTE]
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Some 360° photos of coins I made
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