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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Clawcoins, post: 3312675, member: 77814&quot;]There&#039;s several problems that I see with this</p><p>(1) the injection of an Emotional &quot;heirloom&quot; aspect to grading and valuation to support a high valuation/grading.</p><p><br /></p><p>I run across a lot of people who bring, say a clarinet to me and talk up and down about how it was their grandma&#039;s who was whatever position in whatever symphony orchestra.&nbsp; So because of that they think it&#039;s worth a ton of money.</p><p><br /></p><p>Compared to the stark reality that a different owner will put very little if any valuation into that instrument due to it&#039;s history.&nbsp; There are a few exceptions, though everything has to be totally documented.</p><p><br /></p><p>(2) not knowing how to grade and how grading follows sets of rules.&nbsp; If something does *not* have those criteria then it cannot be straight graded.&nbsp; And I&#039;m one of the last people you want to grade a coin because I rarely buy graded coins except in certain scenarios.&nbsp; But you have to deal with reality and be totally unbiased.</p><p><br /></p><p>I&#039;m not a grader and know about wazoo about it other than trying to be critical and unbiased when reviewing a coin versus the PCGS PhotoGrade program.</p><p><br /></p><p>Of course the rarity has a lot to do with it too.</p><p><br /></p><p>(3) Authentication versus getting it Graded.</p><p>I&#039;ve bought some pre1800 coins that were holed or damaged that could *NOT* be straight graded due to it.&nbsp; This lowered my purchase cost but knowing that it could Never be straight graded.&nbsp; Of course it limits my selling price too.</p><p><br /></p><p>Maybe talk to [USER=24314]@Insider[/USER]&nbsp; about this and the best option for you ?</p><p><br /></p><p>(4) the solder</p><p>well fooey.&nbsp; What &#039;cha gonna do.&nbsp; If you were buying a pristine looking vintage car and then found out there was bondo in one section that would lower your valuation of it, right?&nbsp; Then it would open you up to scrutinizing it in fine detail.</p><p><br /></p><p>In this case just looking at the coin 90% gold and 10% copper.</p><p>don&#039;t quote me on this.&nbsp; but pure gold has a melting temperature of over 1900 Fahrenheit, Copper also over 1900.</p><p>Tin-lead alloy solders are under 400</p><p>Silver is under 700 ?, and silver alloy typically solders under 500 ?</p><p>Although I know nothing about &quot;vintage&quot; solders, the compound etc but I would think it&#039;s well below that of Gold/Copper.</p><p><br /></p><p>You see where I&#039;m leading too ..... technically, in the hands of a very, very skilled jeweler, they should be able to melt most if not all the solder off (maybe those grading companies Preservationist people would know more [USER=24314]@Insider[/USER]&nbsp; again).</p><p><br /></p><p>I would think that First bringing a fine tip, temperature controlled soldering gun up to a verified temp, then touching a solder high point to see the reaction - using a solder vacuum to suck it up.&nbsp; Probably with the coin upside down to prevent it from flattening on the surface.&nbsp; Then moving on appropriately.</p><p><br /></p><p>Although, keep in mind the surface is already marred, or maybe even protected from this solder so there will still be a discoloration present.</p><p><br /></p><p>But above the first &quot;8&quot; of the date, is there a hole or indentation there?&nbsp; The picture isn&#039;t clear enough to see much.&nbsp; I would think maybe someone made this into a button or a (hat /jacket) pin.&nbsp; But, who knows right ?[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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