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<p>[QUOTE="Ed Zak, post: 37507, member: 824"]First, Photograde is good for circulated coins, but MS coins are another issue. You have to look at strikes, ticks, nicks, bag marks, and of course, luster. </p><p><br /></p><p>For instance, strikes during the 1920's were relatively poor when it came to Lincoln Cents and what would constitute a MS grade during the 20's may not make the grade for other years. Also, there is the color issue as "barely noticable blemishes" are never the same from one person to the other. Matter of fact, everytime I think a coin is MS64, the seller thinks it is MS65 and when I think it is MS65, the buyer thinks it is MS64.</p><p><br /></p><p>What I suggest is that you eventually acquire the same coin, same mint mark from the top graders in the same grade so that you have any idea what really is a MS____ versus a MS _____. Use that as a comparison until you get comfortable with your own grading skills. You will always learn here and elsewhere...LEARN AS MUCH AS YOU CAN!</p><p><br /></p><p>Also, slabbing technology (especially for the top four of PCGS, NGC, ICG and ANACS) has really improved over the years. I hear of stories when PCGS first started out where the coins would rattle in the slab and in some cases, the slabs would fall apart! Slabs are today, mainly sonically sealed and some are air and water tight. (Though, I wouldn't start dunking coins in buckets of water). With that said, I guess "surgury" can be done on slabs to remove and replace coins and that is why you always hear at these forums to buy the coin FIRST and never the slab.</p><p><br /></p><p>But since, many transactions are being done "sight-unseen" with auctions houses, first check the seller's return policy and feedback. For instance, I took a shot at a PCI MS67RD Lincoln the other day and when I got it, with all of the ticks, nicks and blemishes, it was more a MS64RB, I promptly sent it back. The seller wasn't happy and even stated to me that I should have KNOWN that PCI slabs are 2 points or more over graded and I should have known what I was buying...but I still returned it.</p><p><br /></p><p>Also, if you return anthing, make sure you have delivery confirmation from the Post Office. It costs you an additional 55 cents for parcels, but it is will worth it so you don't get into arguments whether they received the coin or not.</p><p><br /></p><p>Matter of fact, I ALWAYS use delivery confirmation for all coins I sell on ebay so that a buyer doesn't play games with me.</p><p><br /></p><p>It really is easy to break out slabs. I use two pliers and elbow grease. But to break out a coin without disturbing the plastic is a differant matter. Anybody can break out a coin in slab, but to break it out without showing evidence that the slab was tampered with is almost impossible...but then again, someone out there is thinking of exactly how to do just that. And WATCH out for the counterfeit slabs coming from China.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Ed Zak, post: 37507, member: 824"]First, Photograde is good for circulated coins, but MS coins are another issue. You have to look at strikes, ticks, nicks, bag marks, and of course, luster. For instance, strikes during the 1920's were relatively poor when it came to Lincoln Cents and what would constitute a MS grade during the 20's may not make the grade for other years. Also, there is the color issue as "barely noticable blemishes" are never the same from one person to the other. Matter of fact, everytime I think a coin is MS64, the seller thinks it is MS65 and when I think it is MS65, the buyer thinks it is MS64. What I suggest is that you eventually acquire the same coin, same mint mark from the top graders in the same grade so that you have any idea what really is a MS____ versus a MS _____. Use that as a comparison until you get comfortable with your own grading skills. You will always learn here and elsewhere...LEARN AS MUCH AS YOU CAN! Also, slabbing technology (especially for the top four of PCGS, NGC, ICG and ANACS) has really improved over the years. I hear of stories when PCGS first started out where the coins would rattle in the slab and in some cases, the slabs would fall apart! Slabs are today, mainly sonically sealed and some are air and water tight. (Though, I wouldn't start dunking coins in buckets of water). With that said, I guess "surgury" can be done on slabs to remove and replace coins and that is why you always hear at these forums to buy the coin FIRST and never the slab. But since, many transactions are being done "sight-unseen" with auctions houses, first check the seller's return policy and feedback. For instance, I took a shot at a PCI MS67RD Lincoln the other day and when I got it, with all of the ticks, nicks and blemishes, it was more a MS64RB, I promptly sent it back. The seller wasn't happy and even stated to me that I should have KNOWN that PCI slabs are 2 points or more over graded and I should have known what I was buying...but I still returned it. Also, if you return anthing, make sure you have delivery confirmation from the Post Office. It costs you an additional 55 cents for parcels, but it is will worth it so you don't get into arguments whether they received the coin or not. Matter of fact, I ALWAYS use delivery confirmation for all coins I sell on ebay so that a buyer doesn't play games with me. It really is easy to break out slabs. I use two pliers and elbow grease. But to break out a coin without disturbing the plastic is a differant matter. Anybody can break out a coin in slab, but to break it out without showing evidence that the slab was tampered with is almost impossible...but then again, someone out there is thinking of exactly how to do just that. And WATCH out for the counterfeit slabs coming from China.[/QUOTE]
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