Hello, I am new to collecting and am entranced by the Mercury dime. I am thinking about putting a collection of them together so please show me what you got!
Thats tough! If i was going to purchase one i would probably go for the 1921. Just because it tells a story.
I posted these in the other thread but I will post them again since they are the only Mercs I have pictures of.
"Well if I had money Tell you what I'd do I'd go downtown and buy a Mercury or two Crazy 'bout a Mercury"
The reverse on that 1941D looks stunning CoinCast!! And nice 1916D! I can't wait to one day get my own. -theSharpGun
Lehigh, the postman accidentally delivered a package for you to my house. The label got partially destroyed, could you send me your address and let me know what times your sleeping so i don't disturb you and i will be sure to deliver it. :devil:
Wow, whatcha gonna do when I start posting the really good ones. Don't worry, I sold them all already.
Wow. You guys are going to get me in trouble. I just keep sitting here hitting refresh waiting for more! Not to sound ignorant (but i am). I see its graded MS 66, does the coloring not detract from the grade? From what i read in the red book it seems like the main thing is the bands on the facises (sp?). Is this correct? What is that coloring caused from? In person is that dime as white as it looks?
Attractive toning will often bump the grade up. However, this coin resides in a very old NGC generation 4 holder (circa 1989-1992) when the practice of market grading for colorful toning was in it's infancy. Yes, the bands on the fasces are important and if they are fully split, the coin will qualify for the FB (Full Bands) designation like the coin shown above. The subject of toning is an expansive topic. For a beginner crash course, read this thread: http://www.cointalk.com/t84670/ With regards to the untoned portion of the coin, they were rather white compared to the silver look of most Mercury Dimes. Here is a the raw unedited photo of the coin for comparison.