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Should I send 1936 matte proof cent for regrading by ANACS or grading by NGC?
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<p>[QUOTE="johnmilton, post: 7599578, member: 101855"]I believe that there is some sort of a problem with that Proof Buffalo Nickel. If the PCGS "glammor shot" is accurate, the surfaces on the obverse fall somewhere between the brilliant and satin finish which is sort of a no man's land. The brilliant pieces are really bright. The reverse is obviously that of a brilliant Proof.</p><p><br /></p><p>For what it's worth here is a bit of advice. Buy the coin in the holder you want it be in, even if you have to pay a little more. Some of the off-brand grading services are off-brand for a reason. Crossing coins from NGC to PCGS is hard. Many times crossing them from a second tier service is even harder. I am not saying that the second tier services are always wrong, but they can slip up more frequently.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="johnmilton, post: 7599578, member: 101855"]I believe that there is some sort of a problem with that Proof Buffalo Nickel. If the PCGS "glammor shot" is accurate, the surfaces on the obverse fall somewhere between the brilliant and satin finish which is sort of a no man's land. The brilliant pieces are really bright. The reverse is obviously that of a brilliant Proof. For what it's worth here is a bit of advice. Buy the coin in the holder you want it be in, even if you have to pay a little more. Some of the off-brand grading services are off-brand for a reason. Crossing coins from NGC to PCGS is hard. Many times crossing them from a second tier service is even harder. I am not saying that the second tier services are always wrong, but they can slip up more frequently.[/QUOTE]
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Should I send 1936 matte proof cent for regrading by ANACS or grading by NGC?
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