Should I Dip It......

Anyone else notice the clutter in that "S" mint mark?

 

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Let it's natural beauty bloom.

 

Okay, talk to me. I'm listening.

 

I never figured you for a chicken.
PLEASE DO and save me the time. We can all learn something.

 

Thread is still there. My posts are still there. Yet after one member posted the definition of corrosion (damage to metal) and I posted that he made my point (the black crust on the rims of the PCGS graded coin caused irreversible damage to the surface) my comments would not post and a "error message #113." came up. I tried several times to comment further with no result. When I posted on another topic, my post worked fine.

 

I have been reading Poe's book and highly recommend it although there are a few things in it that I do not agree with. The toning chapter is very good; however, the part about Dr. White's experiment dealing with the weight difference between a toned coin and the same coin when dipped seems a little far fetched. IMHO, either the coin used in his experiment had a black crusty deposit and removal of the oxidation produced a very evident weight loss OR Dr. White had access to a precision balance producing .0000 +/- results.

 

Analytical balances in common use in chem labs weigh +/- 0.0001 g

 

I am just seeing another mm below the one showing. Wash 25cents aren't my thing and I don't see anything come up about any type of double punched mm when I google it. I am sitting here in Dubai with nothing to do but spend time trying to expand the two reverse pics of this 53-s. The first pic shows indentations to the left and right of the 's' but bottom or 2nd pic doesn't show it. oh well.

 

Weimar White, and expert on coin chemistry, says that toning on a coin is like rust on a piece of iron. In other words, it's a form of damage. So, if you want a contrarian point of view, I think it's uncirculated (i.e., mint state) and would benefit from a quick dip in Jeweluster. As to its value, that depends on the number of hits and abrasion on it. Probably not worth submitting to be certified, so leave it alone. I think that's what you meant rather than "allow."

 

I left out a zero! Should have posted .00001.

Point of interest. In an authentication class our instructor (former ANACS authenticator) told us about the time two identical 1924 $20 coins in the same order that were logged in with consecutive numbers weighed exactly the same (three tries to make sure) on a balance certified to +/- 0.001 grams! What's the chance of that? At the time, ANACS used a coin's weight to help identify it in case an order of similar coins or two different orders were mixed. Due to that, at the next service he worked at, the balance was upgraded to one that was accurate to 0.0001 grams!

 

If I were publishing such a book, I'd definitely get access to a microgram scale (and a technician capable of using it properly; I certainly don't have the skill). Sartorius makes one with 10 microgram readability at up to 60g capacity; it'll set you back about $5K. A balance that weighs to 1 microgram (31g capacity, not quite enough to weigh a one-troy-ounce round) is closer to $20K. They make balances that read down to 0.1 microgram, but their capacity is only around 2 grams; you'd be stuck studying half-dimes or trimes. But if you can afford the $30K for such a balance, perhaps you can afford to buy some MS half-dimes for experimentation.

Here's a link to the catalog page I was looking at for these figures.

 

Mike,

While Dr. White is an expert chemist, a respected author, and a numismatist, his views on toning being damage (as you have correctly stated) while chemically accurate are certifiable nonsense when applied to numismatics. He can write all he wants about damage but the fact is that: BEAUTIFULLY DAMAGED COINS bring a premium from knowledgeable "big time" collectors and professional dealers.

 

Why are you in Dubai? There's plenty to do there! Besides, I thought you were in Portland International Airport.

Check these out:

 

Having microbalance capability is useful for certain weighings and calculations, but many times if not specifically trained ( as Jeff mentioned above) the experimenter can introduce large errors. It is sometime amazing to me that owners of better than .0001 gram balances do not have and regularly use the calibration weights and balance calibration procedures, nor have a breeze shield. Price the calibration weights for a microbalance, usually north of 10% of the balance. If you can kill a small pest with a .22, why use a .357 or a .308. Oh, I forgot ......

 

The Sartorius balance we used was good to +/- 0.0001 mounted on a granite table and enclosed in a 4 1/2 sided box. A company representative came by on occasion to check its accuracy.


@jeffB please excuse my mathematical ignorance but if .1 microgram is a millionth of a gram; how many places +/- does the $30,000 balance go out to?

 

I might try MS70 on that one. It would brighten it but leave the crescent tone but lighten it.

 

That's one-tenth of a microgram, or one ten-millionth of a gram. The display would have one digit to the left of the decimal, and seven to the right. The 30-gram 1-µg model would have two digits to the left of the decimal, and six to the right. Either one is kind of crazy -- but electronic engineers dealing with radio or cell-phone stuff, or especially GPS, need even more accuracy (significant digits) than that on some of their test equipment.

 

Keep in mind that you can always use acetone (it's also nail polish remover) sold in most places that have drug sections- Walgreens, Walmart, etc. Acetone is mostly used to get sticky residue such a PVC and tape from a coin an has absolutely no effect on the coin. It will not take off toning, which the back of your coin appears to have from the photos, but the front seems to have something on it besides toning. That's the problem with just looking at pictures, you really can't get a feel for the problem unless you can physically touch the coin.

If you decide to try, dip the coin in acetone, wash it in running water, and use a soft cloth (I use a microfiber cloth) to DAB it dry. Acetone is very poisonous and it's fumes are not much better, so if you do try, make sure you're in a well ventilated place; I use the bathroom with the exhaust fan on. The old plastic flips are PVC and leave a greenish residue on coins, acetone takes it right off and the third party grading services allow acetone use.

 

If you rinse the coin in acetone and hold by the edge and allow to airdry. you do not have to wash with water, which could well start up corrosion again. The acetone should not leave residue if it is pure acetone. Sometimes nail polish remover has other chemicals for smell, etc., as purity is not really needed, so I wouldn't take the chance. Lastly be careful not to put acetone down modern drains , as most are made of white PVC. Jim

 

Wow, those are much better pics and I don't see any 'ghosts' there now. I'm in UAE working, now in Al Ain. Was only in PDX airport for a short flight from PDX-SEA before jumping to DXB. I have front office staff, concierge and others looking for "something different in a coin". And was successful. Will attempt pics when I get home, something I can post. (I know better than post just words; must have pics!)