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Should I consider my pre-1964 silver coins junk?
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<p>[QUOTE="John Burgess, post: 8230509, member: 105098"]My opinion, with "junk silver" or 90% and 40%, it was picked through for better dates by 1950, and by 1964 onward when silver was removed, this is where the hoarding really happened. Better dates just really aren't going to appear in most cases. BUT I'd say to go through them anyways because who you sell it to probably will and it might as well be you that finds something!</p><p><br /></p><p>Anyways, I'd say to definitely sort it by</p><p>1. quarters, dimes, half dollars from 1964 or earlier (90%) 10 dimes, 4 quarters, two half dollars, all works out the same.</p><p>2. half dollars from 1965-1970 (40%)</p><p>3. any silver dollars from 1878-1935 you might have, (they should pay more for that regardless.)</p><p>4. anything earlier dated or foreign which would need to all be calculated at different rates.</p><p><br /></p><p>my opinion if you do this, the person you are dealing with will recognize it was sorted and you aren't some rando that doesn't know what they have and wants them to sort through it. it will go a lot quicker.</p><p><br /></p><p>I'd also say if you have BU uncirculated, you might try to get a little premium on that. there really isn't a "AU" qualifier for junk silver, but absolutely there is Average Circulated, and then BU and BU sells for about $30 more for quarters or halves than an average circulated roll. this "should" apply to you if you do the sorting for them and it's clear it's BU. if they won't I'd say sell the BU stuff on Ebay, the people there will pay the higher price for it. Even as roll of 1964 BU dimes they will sell for $20 more than a roll of average circulated coin. I mean you can't nickel and dime them too much before they are like "leave my store!" but they will sell like walkers at a different rate than franklins, and franklins at a different rate than Kennedy's ect. same goes with dimes and quarters.</p><p><br /></p><p>If I sell my wheat cent accumulation as a pile, I will get like 2 cents each, maybe 3 cents each. maybe like $2 a roll even, , but if I sort them, and have rolls at 1909-1919, 1920-1929, 1930-1939 and the rest as "common", I can get a better price for the sorting on the earlier date rolls because the dealer doesn't have to do the sorting work and can sell them for a higher price, like the 1909-1919 roll for $15, the 1920-1929 for like $10 and the 1930-1939 for maybe $8 so clearly he can pay more once it's verified it's as represented.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>pretty much as far as junk silver goes, if it's not BU it's all average circulation until it's "culls and damaged".</p><p><br /></p><p>I guess it matters if you decide the effort is worth it or not really to squeeze out a few extra dollars.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="John Burgess, post: 8230509, member: 105098"]My opinion, with "junk silver" or 90% and 40%, it was picked through for better dates by 1950, and by 1964 onward when silver was removed, this is where the hoarding really happened. Better dates just really aren't going to appear in most cases. BUT I'd say to go through them anyways because who you sell it to probably will and it might as well be you that finds something! Anyways, I'd say to definitely sort it by 1. quarters, dimes, half dollars from 1964 or earlier (90%) 10 dimes, 4 quarters, two half dollars, all works out the same. 2. half dollars from 1965-1970 (40%) 3. any silver dollars from 1878-1935 you might have, (they should pay more for that regardless.) 4. anything earlier dated or foreign which would need to all be calculated at different rates. my opinion if you do this, the person you are dealing with will recognize it was sorted and you aren't some rando that doesn't know what they have and wants them to sort through it. it will go a lot quicker. I'd also say if you have BU uncirculated, you might try to get a little premium on that. there really isn't a "AU" qualifier for junk silver, but absolutely there is Average Circulated, and then BU and BU sells for about $30 more for quarters or halves than an average circulated roll. this "should" apply to you if you do the sorting for them and it's clear it's BU. if they won't I'd say sell the BU stuff on Ebay, the people there will pay the higher price for it. Even as roll of 1964 BU dimes they will sell for $20 more than a roll of average circulated coin. I mean you can't nickel and dime them too much before they are like "leave my store!" but they will sell like walkers at a different rate than franklins, and franklins at a different rate than Kennedy's ect. same goes with dimes and quarters. If I sell my wheat cent accumulation as a pile, I will get like 2 cents each, maybe 3 cents each. maybe like $2 a roll even, , but if I sort them, and have rolls at 1909-1919, 1920-1929, 1930-1939 and the rest as "common", I can get a better price for the sorting on the earlier date rolls because the dealer doesn't have to do the sorting work and can sell them for a higher price, like the 1909-1919 roll for $15, the 1920-1929 for like $10 and the 1930-1939 for maybe $8 so clearly he can pay more once it's verified it's as represented. pretty much as far as junk silver goes, if it's not BU it's all average circulation until it's "culls and damaged". I guess it matters if you decide the effort is worth it or not really to squeeze out a few extra dollars.[/QUOTE]
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Should I consider my pre-1964 silver coins junk?
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