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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;NPCoin, post: 1203701, member: 5629&quot;]I mostly agree with that statement.&nbsp; Another issue that helps in determining the sale price is the experience of the seller. If an inexperienced seller comes into a shop to sell a set of slabbed coins, the dealer may well offer in back of sight unseen bid for the coins and/or cherry-pick the nicer coins that may have been under-graded, and pointing out those coins that are possibly over-graded.&nbsp; The fact that a grade has already been applied to the coin by another party lends these opportunities to the buyer.</p><p><br /></p><p>On the other hand, raw coins have no grade designation and are more open to haggling over opinion.&nbsp; I would personally invest the $1000 in a number of books on the subject of the Peace Dollar, including books about VAMs, and attribute and grade your own raw coins.&nbsp; Keep records and notes about each coin. In the event of some personal demise, instructions on certifying the set, or your personal grades and attributes, may be used by family members to be able to sell the set for the premium it may (or may not) be worth.</p><p><br /></p><p>In my personal opinion, paying for a third party grade is utterly and completely useless when the money could be spent on a better education in numismatics.&nbsp; These services are good in the instances where you yourself question the actual authenticity of the coin(s).&nbsp; but, I can think of a number of better things to do with a set of Peace Dollars and $1000.</p><p><br /></p><p>And, as was previously mentioned, possibly the cheaper way to build a &quot;graded&quot; set is to buy them already graded.&nbsp; Use the knowledge you have of grading to find the pieces you like already graded at the grade you want flashing on your slabs.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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