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<p>[QUOTE="Clawcoins, post: 3192839, member: 77814"]I'm not to sure about Takahashi but I think their FSQ 130 line is full frame exposure capable, but I don't think their 120 line is.</p><p><br /></p><p>I use both DX 24mp and FX 24mp. The DX allows more cropability though (approx.) 2 stops longer exposure. Though I haven't tested high density FF sensors (d800/850).</p><p><br /></p><p>Just like with lenses a larger "aperture" allows more light in. For Telescopes the width of the optical scope tube - the wider of course allows more light to the sensor than a smaller diameter in the same amount of time.</p><p><br /></p><p>I think the above first nebulae was with a single image 5 inch reflector, on a D7000 16mp DX sensor. The 2nd was 12inch multiple stacked images including multiple light colors. I was also testing full spectrum sensors where you block out areas of the spectrum, then stack them all. Stacking allows shorter exposure (less vibrations) to show a stacked more crisp detail image than one super long exposure - you can also control noise better and don't need a high end tracking system. Also limited spectrum images. But complexity skyrockets.</p><p><br /></p><p>Problem is refractors due to the cost of the lenses (and additional weight) cost more than Reflectors. Though the better more accurate mirrors you get in a reflector and the prices skyrocket.</p><p><br /></p><p>A good Refractor will have more detail than a lower cost Reflector.</p><p>My 600mm lens offers better cropability details of Saturn/Jupiter, then my 1900mm 5inch or 2,000mm 12inch reflector telescope. Although, do deep space and the lens suffers dramatically in my comparison tests unless you find a nice 8 inch refractor for light gathering color for some reason LOL.</p><p><br /></p><p>but it all varies. My tests are limited to what I have and how actually clear the skies are to the telescope, not the eye. My 12" reflector scope has mounted a smaller refractor or a small 3 or 5 inch reflector when I put it on.</p><p><br /></p><p>My main thing with cameras .. as I've gotten older is I use DSLR simply because I have them before mirrorless became more available. I nearly switched to SONY mirrorless but the star eater issue came out.</p><p><br /></p><p>But remote shutter either mechanical, electronic or remotely is important as is a flippy type screen (saves my back and time). Many cameras can have the same sensor, with just the electronics and software being the varying factor. But when it's dark your shutter speeds and stability comes wildly into play. very minor vibrations (just you sneaking away) can show slight shifts in the images with pinpoint stars on them once you pixel peep with images greater than 1/6th of a second - thus stacking may help.</p><p><br /></p><p>too much to type in a single post ...[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Clawcoins, post: 3192839, member: 77814"]I'm not to sure about Takahashi but I think their FSQ 130 line is full frame exposure capable, but I don't think their 120 line is. I use both DX 24mp and FX 24mp. The DX allows more cropability though (approx.) 2 stops longer exposure. Though I haven't tested high density FF sensors (d800/850). Just like with lenses a larger "aperture" allows more light in. For Telescopes the width of the optical scope tube - the wider of course allows more light to the sensor than a smaller diameter in the same amount of time. I think the above first nebulae was with a single image 5 inch reflector, on a D7000 16mp DX sensor. The 2nd was 12inch multiple stacked images including multiple light colors. I was also testing full spectrum sensors where you block out areas of the spectrum, then stack them all. Stacking allows shorter exposure (less vibrations) to show a stacked more crisp detail image than one super long exposure - you can also control noise better and don't need a high end tracking system. Also limited spectrum images. But complexity skyrockets. Problem is refractors due to the cost of the lenses (and additional weight) cost more than Reflectors. Though the better more accurate mirrors you get in a reflector and the prices skyrocket. A good Refractor will have more detail than a lower cost Reflector. My 600mm lens offers better cropability details of Saturn/Jupiter, then my 1900mm 5inch or 2,000mm 12inch reflector telescope. Although, do deep space and the lens suffers dramatically in my comparison tests unless you find a nice 8 inch refractor for light gathering color for some reason LOL. but it all varies. My tests are limited to what I have and how actually clear the skies are to the telescope, not the eye. My 12" reflector scope has mounted a smaller refractor or a small 3 or 5 inch reflector when I put it on. My main thing with cameras .. as I've gotten older is I use DSLR simply because I have them before mirrorless became more available. I nearly switched to SONY mirrorless but the star eater issue came out. But remote shutter either mechanical, electronic or remotely is important as is a flippy type screen (saves my back and time). Many cameras can have the same sensor, with just the electronics and software being the varying factor. But when it's dark your shutter speeds and stability comes wildly into play. very minor vibrations (just you sneaking away) can show slight shifts in the images with pinpoint stars on them once you pixel peep with images greater than 1/6th of a second - thus stacking may help. too much to type in a single post ...[/QUOTE]
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