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<p>[QUOTE="Clawcoins, post: 3192345, member: 77814"]with the winter coming one of the most noticeable set of stars out there is Orion. In it there are several Nebulae such as M42, M78 and the horsehead & flame.</p><p><a href="https://flic.kr/p/yx84Pt" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://flic.kr/p/yx84Pt" rel="nofollow"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5621/21355606581_6a11c3c6c8.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" />20150912_OrionNebulae3-01</a> by , on Flickr</p><p><br /></p><p>in relation to the imaging circle .... it's basically for DX. FX has a dark ring around it. I was searching for my 40k high airplane at 4,000mm that clearly shows the dark ring around it but I can't find it right now.</p><p><br /></p><p>as to DSLR, MIrrorless and the cooled cameras such as converted Nikon D5x00s. DSLR has a mirror slap. In my scopes and tests I've found I need a 5 second pause before initiating the sensor to eliminate all motion. This is being super critical as in deep space you may end up cropping alot and I have tests showing this the best pause time. Thus you need Bulb mode. Some lower end Nikons have a pause which I think only is 3 seconds - not enough time in my book.</p><p><br /></p><p>Mirrorless. No mirror slap. Modern recent mirrorless at crop and FullFrame are fine for astrophotography. Some older SONYs have a software fiasco nicknamed "star eater" - very appropriately named. So make sure any used one's software doesn't do that.</p><p><br /></p><p>Once you get above 20 minutes and you consistently do that you maybe should look at cooled cameras. The sensor gets really hot and you start getting pixels getting burnt out, and thus dead pixels. The cooled cameras allow the sensor to stay cool and prevent overheating. but conversely, by that time you have a really nice telescope and higher end computerized tracking system.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Clawcoins, post: 3192345, member: 77814"]with the winter coming one of the most noticeable set of stars out there is Orion. In it there are several Nebulae such as M42, M78 and the horsehead & flame. [URL='https://flic.kr/p/yx84Pt'][IMG]https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5621/21355606581_6a11c3c6c8.jpg[/IMG]20150912_OrionNebulae3-01[/URL] by , on Flickr in relation to the imaging circle .... it's basically for DX. FX has a dark ring around it. I was searching for my 40k high airplane at 4,000mm that clearly shows the dark ring around it but I can't find it right now. as to DSLR, MIrrorless and the cooled cameras such as converted Nikon D5x00s. DSLR has a mirror slap. In my scopes and tests I've found I need a 5 second pause before initiating the sensor to eliminate all motion. This is being super critical as in deep space you may end up cropping alot and I have tests showing this the best pause time. Thus you need Bulb mode. Some lower end Nikons have a pause which I think only is 3 seconds - not enough time in my book. Mirrorless. No mirror slap. Modern recent mirrorless at crop and FullFrame are fine for astrophotography. Some older SONYs have a software fiasco nicknamed "star eater" - very appropriately named. So make sure any used one's software doesn't do that. Once you get above 20 minutes and you consistently do that you maybe should look at cooled cameras. The sensor gets really hot and you start getting pixels getting burnt out, and thus dead pixels. The cooled cameras allow the sensor to stay cool and prevent overheating. but conversely, by that time you have a really nice telescope and higher end computerized tracking system.[/QUOTE]
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