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<p>[QUOTE="ToughCOINS, post: 2978972, member: 20480"]First off, understand that you are not necessarily missing out on coins due to shill bidding. You may not be bidding enough, possibly even for a substandard coin, let alone one that you've taken lots of time to single out.</p><p><br /></p><p>If dealer bid for a particular coin is $100, fair retail is probably about $130. Grey Sheet bid is for a run-of-the-mill, generic looking example . . . not a problem coin, but not exceptional for the grade either. If you've spent a fair amount of time looking through numerous examples to find one that's exceptional for the grade, and you expect to buy it for less than $130, that seems pretty unrealistic.</p><p><br /></p><p>Suppose the next higher grade is $200 in Grey Sheet and $260 retail. If that's the case, one should not be at all surprised if someone else is willing to spend $175 or even $200 to buy that coin, as they also likely ruled out lots of average looking examples.</p><p><br /></p><p>Valuation is an art, honed with both knowledge and experience. Do not expect that a Grey Sheet is anything more than a tool. If you don't know how to use the tool properly, you cannot expect great results.</p><p><br /></p><p>With the foregoing behind us, shill bidding usually can be detected by seeing the very same coin, apparently won by a different bidder, being offered again by the same seller shortly after it ended. </p><p><br /></p><p>If you suspect shill bidding, look for re-listings of the same coins by the same seller a day or two after auction's end, and compare the images with those of the coin you bid on to confirm the coin is the same. Bear in mind that transactions can be canceled, and the seller may defend himself / herself with such a claim. If you can identify this as a pattern with a thorough review of lots of completed auctions, your claim may be very difficult to defend against.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="ToughCOINS, post: 2978972, member: 20480"]First off, understand that you are not necessarily missing out on coins due to shill bidding. You may not be bidding enough, possibly even for a substandard coin, let alone one that you've taken lots of time to single out. If dealer bid for a particular coin is $100, fair retail is probably about $130. Grey Sheet bid is for a run-of-the-mill, generic looking example . . . not a problem coin, but not exceptional for the grade either. If you've spent a fair amount of time looking through numerous examples to find one that's exceptional for the grade, and you expect to buy it for less than $130, that seems pretty unrealistic. Suppose the next higher grade is $200 in Grey Sheet and $260 retail. If that's the case, one should not be at all surprised if someone else is willing to spend $175 or even $200 to buy that coin, as they also likely ruled out lots of average looking examples. Valuation is an art, honed with both knowledge and experience. Do not expect that a Grey Sheet is anything more than a tool. If you don't know how to use the tool properly, you cannot expect great results. With the foregoing behind us, shill bidding usually can be detected by seeing the very same coin, apparently won by a different bidder, being offered again by the same seller shortly after it ended. If you suspect shill bidding, look for re-listings of the same coins by the same seller a day or two after auction's end, and compare the images with those of the coin you bid on to confirm the coin is the same. Bear in mind that transactions can be canceled, and the seller may defend himself / herself with such a claim. If you can identify this as a pattern with a thorough review of lots of completed auctions, your claim may be very difficult to defend against.[/QUOTE]
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