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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Coinchemistry 2012, post: 2111547, member: 28107&quot;]I&#039;m sorry that I overlooked your reply earlier; I didn&#039;t intentionally ignore the question you asked.</p><p><br /></p><p>The counterfeits that are the cheapest to make tend to be shoddy and can be spotted by someone with a reasonable amount of numismatic knowledge and thus should pose little concern to collectors or dealers entering into a transaction.&nbsp; Good &quot;quality&quot; counterfeits - those that I define as good enough to fool a significant number of collectors and maybe even some dealers - require a lot of time and resources to perfect.&nbsp; They are more costly and therefore the economic considerations of counterfeiting seem to lean towards them being profitable only for more expensive items.&nbsp; This isn&#039;t to say that they don&#039;t exist for cheaper items, but they are MUCH, MUCH rarer.&nbsp; Put another way, if you are going to pour a lot of effort into counterfeiting, you are looking to maximize the return on your &quot;investment.&quot;&nbsp; Counterfeiting $100-$150 coins isn&#039;t going to do that.&nbsp; And I think the TPGs and collecting community would catch on very quickly if someone started a massive operation.</p><p><br /></p><p>And with regards to counterfeiting, I think Morgan Dollars are easier to authenticate, in many instances, given to the enormous amount of information in the public domain (e.g. VamWorld) about the various dies used to strike legitimate coins.&nbsp; Most counterfeiters would overlook subtle nuisances that could be used to authenticate a coin.&nbsp; Moreover, the series is very different than Trade Dollars for instance, as the latter are known for producing very deceptive pieces.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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