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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;wxcoin, post: 3003614, member: 74624&quot;]Last year I helped an elderly friend sell he late mothers collection.&nbsp; She had both US and foreign coins.&nbsp; She had multiple US mint and proof sets from 1968-2004.&nbsp; She also had many foreign proof sets and proof coins as well as many dimes, quarters and halves.&nbsp; It took me the better part of a week organizing her coins before taking them to a dealer friend.&nbsp; It really helps speed up the process for a dealer.</p><p><br /></p><p>Basically, I organized everything by type and whether the coins were US or foreign.&nbsp; Mint and proof sets are generally worth considerably less than what the mint sells them for.&nbsp; There are a few exceptions:&nbsp; the 1970 mint set is worth more because no halves were made for circulation and can only be found in mint sets; the 1996 mint set brings a premium because of the extra West Point dime.</p><p><br /></p><p>Anything containing silver or gold should be separated since they bring more for their bullion value.&nbsp; This goes for both US and foreign coins.&nbsp; If their are any older coins you may want to check their values in US and foreign coin reference books.&nbsp; This all depends on how much time you&#039;re willing to spend sorting through everything.</p><p><br /></p><p>The collection I helped sell had several mint state large cents and gold coins.&nbsp; I set those aside and sent them to NGC for attribution and grading.&nbsp; The coins were then sent to one of the major online certified coin auctions where they sold.&nbsp; The dealer would have paid her half or less for the raw coins so the cost/effort of certification ended up being worthwhile for her.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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