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<p>[QUOTE="Insider, post: 2444056, member: 24314"]This is fairly easy if you look at enough SLABBED Saints. Start with MS-66's to learn what Full Mint Luster on the high points looks like. Once you learn what an original surface looks like (even some 66's are not 100% original w/no trace of friction) move down to the MS-65 range. Very many of the 65's will have "flattened," shiny color on the knee, and breast. This is "stacking rub." If that surface is dull, that is friction wear. This difference will may be hard to see at first without a mentor as the bright lighting at shows will reflect off the high points and mask the trace of wear (color) you'll be looking for. Florescent light takes all the glare off a coin and much of the plastic so the difference between shiny and dull pops out.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Insider, post: 2444056, member: 24314"]This is fairly easy if you look at enough SLABBED Saints. Start with MS-66's to learn what Full Mint Luster on the high points looks like. Once you learn what an original surface looks like (even some 66's are not 100% original w/no trace of friction) move down to the MS-65 range. Very many of the 65's will have "flattened," shiny color on the knee, and breast. This is "stacking rub." If that surface is dull, that is friction wear. This difference will may be hard to see at first without a mentor as the bright lighting at shows will reflect off the high points and mask the trace of wear (color) you'll be looking for. Florescent light takes all the glare off a coin and much of the plastic so the difference between shiny and dull pops out.[/QUOTE]
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