Now that is a good one. I have not seen this designation before. Send an email to NCS and ask. I would love to learn this one myself http://www.ncscoin.com/contact/contact_us.htm
Nope - no joke As for the other coin, my explanation covers that one too. The dark crescents are the result of what is known as bag toning. In a bag, one coin will partially overlap another. The area not overlapped will tone, the area that is overlapped will be protected and remain bright. Place a raw Morgan on top of your slabbed coin - you'll see that it lines right up But the other dark areas on that coin are not the result of bag toning. More peach juice I'm afraid - and that explains the grade. That MS00 means environmental damage.
Ok. Then "If" it is certain that it had been damaged enviromentally, wouldn't that bring the value down significantly? And in that case some type of safe cleaning could be administered that would restore some of the original value and luster? Seriously MSOO isn't very good is it?
You are correct - it isn't very good. But that's not really the point in this case. They are noting that the coin does have MS details - but that since the coin is damaged - it cannot be graded. Thus the grade of MS00 - or a non grade. This is what NCS does instead of returning the coin to you in a body- bag. To answer your other question - yes the coin could be cleaned and that would prevent further damage to the coin. But - no amount of cleaning will restore the value, the luster or reverse the damage in this case.
To answer your other question - yes the coin could be cleaned and that would prevent further damage to the coin. But - no amount of cleaning will restore the value, the luster or reverse the damage in this case.[/QUOTE] There you go then GD, He cleans the coin, "Rescans" the coin (thusly getting back to the topic of this post) and then puts his pictures side by side so we can see the Before and After's. Because if this peach juice thing is increasing the value or pedigree, then I am off to start canning and storing fruit in my safe my collection coins. Ha ha (Slapping knee)
I did send a note immediately after reading your response. They replied already. Our label describes the coin as a Genuine Binion Dollar. The MS00 is not our label and must be something the dealer has created for their inventory tracking. I would have to refer your question to the dealer selling the piece. It came from the Shop at Home Network (Binion three pack). The only thing I ever bought from them and probably the last.
It came from the Shop at Home Network (Binion three pack). The only thing I ever bought from them and probably the last.[/QUOTE] Gee I have never seen a coin look that bad on that show. http://www.cointalk.org/images/icons/icon8.gif They always show nice examples of thier super money saving coins.Were the others in the back stained also?
The first one is at the start on this thread (the one with peace juice). The second is the black one. The third is a 1922-P Peace dollar. If you want a picture, let me know. It's just says UNCIRCULATED and is covered with bag marks. It's also double struck on the obverse. Not just the date, like most of the 1922's. The profile, letters, tiara, and date are doubled. It doesn't have any stains or black tone. I should mention that I could have sent these coins back within 30 days and gotten a refund. It was $99 and they were some of the first coins I ever owned. I had to keep them. I've only seen once on the show where a bad coin was pulled from a roll... but I haven't watched it that much.
Did I say "peace" juice? Either that's red kool-aid from the 60's or I was typing too fast. Had to get out and do some last minute shopping. I don't even remember how they were represented. I think it was basic... three random silver dollars from the Binion hoard in NCS slabs. I think the only guarantee is that one would be a Peace dollar and one a Morgan... and I could return if not 100% satisfied. I have no idea if they all look like this or half or most. Let's talk about scanners.... one thing I do remember. I scan and save the images as TIF files. I edit (size, crop) and later save as JPG's to post. I was told that JPG files are compressed and if you need to resize an image, you should NOT resize a JPG file. It should be saved to a different format (like TIF) and resized, then saved as JPG to reduce the file size. I normally scan in the size I need (150/300/600/2400 DPI) and don't resize, but has anyone ever heard this?
My scanner also does not scan slabbed coins. Raw coins are no problem. The slabbed coins are out of focus. I think because the coin itself is just above the scanner surface and not directly on the glass. oh well.
I haven't used my scanner in over a yr now - but I never had any problem scanning slabbed coins. It is very difficult to capture luster with a scanner - but it can be done whether the coin is slabbed or not. As for the different file types for pics - I use jpg from start to finish. And I've seldom if ever had anyone complain about the quality of my pics. Except me of course
I started fooling around with holding a digital camera up to a 30x microscope. The close-up pictures are coming out pretty good. I might stick with my scanner for full coin shots, but try this new method for capturing variety details. Check out the double D on this 1878-S VAM.
I have a National brand stereo microscope. It has a 15x eyepiece and a 2x (and 4x) main lens. I set the main lens at 2x giving me 30x (2 x 15). I think it sells for about $200. I'm using an older compact Olympus digital camera. I'm just holding the camera up to the eyepiece. I'm getting some light by bouncing a flashlight off of a white piece of paper. Couldn't find an extra lamp! It's a temporary set up and I'm still experimenting. I had to drastically reduce the picture in a photo package and crop what I wanted.