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<p>[QUOTE="Jaelus, post: 3142729, member: 46237"]It may have been treated before hand which, depending on how it was done may have made the surfaces more susceptible to rust formation. Having said that, rust isn't going to just appear without the right conditions, which means improper handling (possibly before you acquired it) and/or improper storage.</p><p><br /></p><p>Did you treat the coin before putting it in the flip and after you handled it for photographing?</p><p><br /></p><p>I have a similar Hungarian set with MS63-65 iron, steel, and zinc (much more problematic than iron) coins from both WWI and WWII. For these coins I treat them with acetone (I treat <i>all</i> coins with acetone before they are stored because I don't know how they have been handled before entering my care), VerdiCare (for zinc), and then I apply a tiny amount of light mineral oil to protect the surfaces. The only way the WWI era coins really survived without corrosion in high grades was from being kept oiled.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Jaelus, post: 3142729, member: 46237"]It may have been treated before hand which, depending on how it was done may have made the surfaces more susceptible to rust formation. Having said that, rust isn't going to just appear without the right conditions, which means improper handling (possibly before you acquired it) and/or improper storage. Did you treat the coin before putting it in the flip and after you handled it for photographing? I have a similar Hungarian set with MS63-65 iron, steel, and zinc (much more problematic than iron) coins from both WWI and WWII. For these coins I treat them with acetone (I treat [I]all[/I] coins with acetone before they are stored because I don't know how they have been handled before entering my care), VerdiCare (for zinc), and then I apply a tiny amount of light mineral oil to protect the surfaces. The only way the WWI era coins really survived without corrosion in high grades was from being kept oiled.[/QUOTE]
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